Pitti Uomo 95

// A SIGNIFICANT ANNIVERSARY AT PITTI UOMO 96 //

Behind The Blinds Magazine - Pitti Uomo - MSGM

Celebrating 30 years of Pitti Immagine -which came to life in 1989- the last edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence demonstrated its true leadership and strength within the menswear market, as well as a growing sense of relevance. 

Established brands and newcomers presented their collections in Florence and the calendar was packed with alluring shows, cultural events and special areas within the fair, which drew thousands of visitors from all around the world. As Milan Menswear Week keeps shrinking -and key brands such as Prada decide to show their work abroad- Pitti Uomo has become Italy’s most exciting and innovative menswear event, operating unexpected crossroads between fashion and other disciplines.

This year, major brands did runway shows in Florence, using some of the city’s most unique locations. The French House of Givenchy was Pitti’s special guest this season and Clare Waight Keller got the opportunity to showcase her full menswear line for the very first time. Salvatore Ferragamo also presented their new collection in Florence, embracing a deluxe and minimalist approach that felt right and relevant. MSGM celebrated its 10th anniversary with an upbeat runway show and it was great to see that Massimo Giorgetti hasn’t lost any of his acute fashion sense. The collections that were the most successful were also the most personal and American artist Sterling Ruby’s debut show was a standout statement, which felt raw, free and uncompromising. Naming his line “S.R. Studio. LA. CA.”, Ruby showed pieces for men and women that were instant collector’s items, from one of a kind garments to more commercial offerings. Fusing vibrant colors and customized textiles with bold volumes and inspiring references, Ruby proved that an outsider’s point of view can have a real impact within fashion circles and it wasn’t a surprise that both Raf Simons and Virgil Abloh attended his show.

On the fair front, a similar desire to create new crossroads and fruitful exchanges could be felt. Operating the right mix between heritage brands, sportswear lines and handcrafted accessories is something the organizers of the fair know how to do perfectly and this edition really had something for everyone. Visiting the underground space dedicated to China’s new menswear brands emphasized the ongoing growth of that segment within a market eager for novelty and distinctive points of view. Olivier Saillard’s retrospective menswear exhibition at Palazzo Pitti -entitled “Romanzo Breve di Moda Maschile”- made it clear that plurality has been a driving force in menswear since the late 1980s. The modern man no longer needs clothing as a protective armor or social signifier since fashion has become a thriving field of multiple identities and self-expression. This 96th edition of the fair was indeed the moment where this dimension of fashion could precisely come to life.


/ Words by Philippe Pourhashemi /

/ MSGM picture by Vanni Bassetti /


// FORMALITY AND OPULENCE: A REVIEW OF PITTI UOMO 95 //

A cherished destination for menswear lovers, Pitti Uomo 95 welcomed 36000 visitors in Florence this month, including 9000 international buyers.

 The energy of the fair was rather contagious, reflecting a growing menswear market where customers enjoy fashion’s playful side and dress for their own pleasure. Sportswear fatigue is definitely in the air, even though it will take a while before stores update their offering to embrace more tailored items. You could already feel the influence of Hedi Slimane’s work at Celine with brands cleaning up their silhouette and pushing the suit as a must-have. Italian designer Aldo Maria Camillo -whose CV includes collaborations with Berluti, Valentino and Cerruti- delivered an inspiring and sharp show where the jacket was an ongoing focus.

 If visitors come to Pitti to check out the new ranges offered by the Monclers, Zegnas and Borsalinos of this world, the fair is nevertheless becoming an exciting playground for singular talents and identities. Pierre-Louis Mascia, whose gorgeous silk patterned pieces are produced in the Como region, designed a lavish and decadent collection for men, inspired by refined dandies. Milanese bag brand Serapian, which was founded in 1928 and recently acquired by the Richemont group, offered desirable, elegant and sustainable-minded bags, which were chic and timeless. Certain styles had been made in vintage leathers carefully sourced from the company’s atelier, which gave depth and narrative to the bags, as well as a special patina.

 The same desire for individuality was reflected in Y/Project’s striking show, beautifully orchestrated by Glenn Martens: “Opulence is definitely a word I like at the moment, and I want my clothes to reflect that feeling. The idea of pleasure -and breaking free from boundaries- is key within fashion now.” The hybrid garments Martens is famous for designing seemed to have subconsciously influenced other brands, and sartorial codes were mixed-up to create new forms. Officine Creative’s footwear range, which was previewed at the fair, encapsulated that feeling of fusion between formal and playful, utilitarian and elegant.

 If the Made in Italy label remains a promise of innovation, craftsmanship and expertise, foreign brands also come to Pitti to promote their work. Fernando Bonastre, a Pitti regular who is Spanish but Paris-based, designs minimal and graphic bags that answer the requirements of his busy clients: “I love coming to Pitti, because it’s a great environment to showcase your brand. Department stores get to see your new styles first and I have Asian clients ordering here every season, because they enjoy the atmosphere of the fair. Florence is obviously a magical place, and it’s easier -and less stressful- to look for new brands here than in Paris and Milan.”

 

 / Words by Philippe Pourhashemi /

www.pittimmagine.com