portrait

// THANKFUL //

As he was finishing his fourth year at La Cambre, Cyril Bourez created a collection around iconic pieces we all know and love. The collection is called “Merci Beaucoup” and honours some of the designs that made him want to go into fashion in the first place. His figures are refreshing, yet very respectful of the original compositions.

We asked him a few questions and got a glimpse of this young designer’s insight.

 

Your strength: Being optimistic

Your weakness: I need comfort

Your colour: Blue

Your smell: Sea salt on skin

Your inspiration: A film character, a vintage piece, a detail on my boyfriend's pants

Your sound: Chet Baker's voice

Your destination: Cornwall, the two of us for a few days, soon I hope

Your wildest dream: A two-months holiday

Your worst nightmare: Losing sense of sight

Your goal: Finding the right job, the right place, to feel artistically complete, building something, keeping everything simple

 

 

/ by Gaelle Van Lede /

/ photography by Nagib Chtaïb /

/ Style by Michael Marson /

/ Featuring Maxime at Rebel Management / 

/ Assistant Xavier Bourgeois / 

...

 

// FACE/S BENELUX //

26 FACE/S captured for BTB FIRST ISSUE 1

 

 

/ photo by NAGIB CHTAÏB /

/ production & style by MICHAEL MARSON /

 

/ Make-Up & Hair by /

Noel Inocencio for Mac Cosmetics & Kevin Murphy Belux at Touch by Dominique Models

Sharon De Winter for Mac Cosmetics & Bumble and Bumble at Touch by Dominique Models

David Bettega for Yves Saint Laurent & Redken

Emilie Koot for Mac Cosmetics & Bumble and Bumble

 

Featuring:

Kim, Jonas, Helen, Boyd & Pauline at Dominique Models, Amandine at Be Models Management, Dirk, Luka, Lukas, Louis & Simon at Rebel Management, Sam & Sanel at Ulla Models, Leila at IMM, Dimitri, Corentin, Chloé, Axel & Rose at Hakim Model Management, Lennart & Sylvie at Model scout Maxence Orard, Alisa at Flag Models & Victor at Tomorrow is Another Day.

...

// BLUE ANGEL //

Bomber jacket by Dsquared2

Skirt by Dsquared2

Trousers by Dolce & Gabbana

Trousers & coat by Dolce & Gabbana

Bomber jacket by Dsquared2

Trousers by Faith Connexion

Jacket by Dsquared2 & trousers by Valentino

 

/ Photography by Ferry van der Nat (@mrferryvandernat) /

/ Styling by Koen T. Hendriks (@KoenTHendriks) /

/ Featuring Christopher Paskowski at Mega Model Agency (@christopherpiii) /

/ Special thanks to Artishock Eindhoven /

// ELECTRIC FEEL //

MASSIMO GIORGETTI /BY/ BEHIND THE BLINDS

EXCLUSIVE ITW & FASHION STORY

It didn't take Massimo Giorgetti very long to achieve global success with MSGM.

Part of an exciting generation of new Italian designers, he delivers an upbeat and inspiring message.

 

 

You have a commercial background and worked in sales before launching MSGM. How did it affect your perception of fashion?

In the second year of accounting school, when I was 16, I had already figured out it was the wrong thing for me. The math books and banking were a real nightmare. I waited impatiently for Saturdays to come and go to the newsstand to buy all the fashion magazines: Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, etc.. I wanted them all. And I read them all. The year after, I was asked to be a fit model and learned all the technical aspects in a few months, such as stitching for instance. Once I was done with my exams, I started out as a sales assistant in a close friend’s boutique. From retail, I moved into showroom sales. Two years later, I was already dealing with the problems and responsibilities that come with leading a product design department within a large fashion company.

 You were young, but already had precious experience.

 I had the chance with the Paoloni group to find people who believed in me from the start, and I was already managing two clothing lines at the age of 24. At that moment, I realized that maybe this was going to be my future. The MSGM adventure began in 2009. My past experiences helped me a lot: when I imagine our collections, I visualize them in the showroom first and then on the shop floor.

 Italian fashion is fixated on names and the cult of the designer figure. Did you want to challenge this?

 In Italy it is hard to become a successful young designer because there are still a lot of big and important family firms where the family members are taking care of the creative direction of the brands. For MSGM it was different, we built a new brand from scratch, and success came almost unexpectedly. I think that our label is the proof that something is changing, and that Milan is becoming more open, without losing its uniqueness.

 Would you say your style is bold and optimistic?

 If I had to choose one word to describe MSGM, I’d say “modern”!

 How does your studio operate? Is it like a collective combining different talents?

 Teamwork is essential to get the best results. It’s very important to have a team specialized in several design areas that can often surpass your own knowledge. Our creative team is made of 10 people who are all between 25 and 35. We're all curious of what the others do and quite close to each other; even though I think that now the time has come to have older people with more experience as part of our team.

 Eclecticism, color and graphic contrasts are some of your trademarks. How would you summarize the essence of your brand?

 MSGM is modern, cool, fresh and 100% Made in Italy. The brand is ironic and also colorful.

 You launched MSGM in 2008 and social media has had a profound impact on the industry ever since. Are you hopeful about its future?

 MSGM anticipated trends and offered something new to the market. In 2009, presenting a collection with psychedelic prints made digitally and in fluorescent shades was the secret to the brand's instant success. Right from the beginning we wanted to create a contemporary collection, which wasn’t something very common in Italy at the time, while communicating this directly, bearing in mind the impact social networks were having. I think the market was waiting for a product like ours; many young people were already getting more ideas from the Internet than from magazine pages. MSGM is made for a trendy audience that adores fashion but doesn't want to be slaves to designer labels. Every season, I want to offer them something new.

 Do you try to control social media sometimes?

 Recently we asked people not to post images on social networks during our show. The request was not compulsory, but we wanted to invite the audience to watch the fashion show with their own eyes. The decision was taken mainly as a commercial necessity: I wanted to support the stores that publish images of collections available to sell. A lot of clients go to the stores asking to buy outfits they just saw on the runway, which creates a lot of confusion. I wanted to try to 'clean it up' a bit.

 What do men and women expect from fashion today? Products or stories?

 I think they both want desirable pieces and well-made products that suit them. Buyers are more focused on stories behind the products now, so it’s key to work on these aspects.

 Is there something you absolutely love about your job?

The most exciting part of my job is seeing real people on the street wear our brand.

 You've talked about music as one of your cherished sources of inspiration. Which bands and artists are iconic to you?

 Music has always influenced my clothes, starting from the band that inspired the name of our brand: MGMT. I like to think that my collections are a material interpretation of that sound: music for your eyes! My favorite artists are MGMT, Strokes, Blur, Radiohead, Oasis, Björk, Nirvana, Florence and The Machine. I listen to them constantly.

 What makes MSGM an Italian brand?

 I was born in Rimini and grew up by the sea, just like Federico Fellini who was a Rimini native and grew up there, too. The seaside landscape and its elements have always struck me as a child and teenage boy: umbrellas, stripes and bright colors. The very first MSGM collections were directly influenced by Italian culture, which is the culture I know best. It informs our silhouette, designs, business strategy and desires.

 Did you really expect to be that big so fast?

We started MSGM as a joke, and the success was a surprise. I guess we came up with the right proposal at the right time.

 Any hints for young designers starting out? What would be your best piece of advice?

 Be humble, curious, and always stay focused on your own goals.

...

...

 

/ ITW by PHILIPPE POURHASHEMI /  Illustration by CEDRIK TOSELLI /

/ photography by MICHAEL MARSON /

/ Feat. LOUIS at Rebel Management /

www.msgm.it

// SIR PAUL //

PAUL SMITH /BY/ BEHIND THE BLINDS

 

EXCLUSIVE ITW by REMY RUSSOTTO & FASHION STORY by MARTINE FOUGERON

Buffon said “style is the man itself”. Sir Paul Smith is the man. His impeccable touch dresses women and men with elegance and determination.

 

 How tall are you?

Very!

 Tokyo has the most Michelin stars restaurants in the world and the most Paul Smith boutiques. Any Japanese artist you recently discovered and admire?

There’s a very talented young Japanese photographer called Naoki Honjo. Having met him several times and worked with him before, I know that he's very shy but also incredibly creative. He uses large format cameras and he often photographs from above, sometimes involving him hanging out of helicopters! We did an exhibition with him in my 'Space' shop in Tokyo and also in my shop on Albemarle Street in Mayfair, he came to London and we organised a helicopter for him and he shot some fantastic street scenes. He's figured out a way of getting this amazing depth of field so everything looks miniature. It's a real unique way of working which is very exciting to see in today's photographic world which is often so homogenized.

 What are you wearing now?

I wear a suit more or less every day, today I’m wearing a Paul Smith ‘Suit To Travel In’ with a vintage chambray shirt and a pair of original Adidas Stan Smiths.

 You work reminds me of late Matisse, in its striking simplicity and naïve rawness. Is there something you would like to say about Matisse?

That’s very flattering! I’m a big fan of Matisse. An exhibition of his cut-outs was on show at Tate Modern recently, it was fantastic! I guess something I should say about him is that his famous picture ‘The Snail’ is exactly them same size as my first ever shop, three metres by three metres!

 What is your favourite children’s book?

I always find it very difficult choosing favourites but I have been reading a lot of Winne-the-Pooh lately!

 Your pieces are often humorous. Would you agree? Are fashion designers too serious?

It's all about getting the balance right – making sure that you keep an eye on the commercial aspects but also not take things too seriously. Since it all began I was determined to never let the job change me. I'm blessed with a sense of humour and the ability to keep my feet on the ground, but I'm also aware of the importance of marketing, of fashion shows and having beautiful shops.

 Where do you spend most of your time?

I’m constantly on the go but London will always be home.

 Where will you be tomorrow?

It’s Saturday tomorrow, I’ll be in London so will probably try and stop in at an exhibition or two and maybe pay a visit to some of my shops here and see how things are going.

 I read your father was a photographer. How would you define his photography? Did his photography influence your style?

He always specialised in the 'caught moment' and that's something I've picked up on. I take photos every day and if you use your eyes, every day life can be very inspiring. My ideas for designs can come from anywhere; from a bright pink giant box in LA to a dark ocean on an evening in Italy. My iPhone is packed full of photos of all sorts of different things that inspire me. I also have my own Instagram page (@paul_smith) which acts like a visual diary.

 Buffon said “style is the man itself”. Do you find men in Europe well dressed?

Style is something that is very natural and is a representation of your own personality as opposed to something, which is forced. It's not something you can buy. It's very much about an attitude. Whether on a man or a woman, style can be found in the simplicity of something that we all wear a lot of; a white shirt or a navy blue suit for example, as long as you do it with confidence.

 When were you last in Tokyo?

In October. I go every six months to catch-up with all my team there. This summer I’ll actually be going an extra time as my exhibition ‘Hello, My Name Is Paul Smith’ which started in London and has toured to Belgium and Scotland, is opening in Kyoto in June.

 What is your favourite time of the day?

First thing in the morning. I get up very, very early. I swim about 5am and normally I’m in the office before 6am. I get into my studio, listen to some music and get to work before everyone else arrives.

 David Hockey’s landscapes are wild and peaceful. Mondrian’s colour schemes are musical; they ‘boogie-woogie’ like your work. Do you have a preference between the two artists?

Both have the most amazing eyes for colour. I could never choose between them.

 Do you work at night?

Night and day, my mind is constantly working!

 What music did you listen to recently?

I've been listening to a lot of Jake Bugg's album, Shangri-La lately.

 You had a serious cycling accident, followed by months of recovery, do you still cycle?

Absolutely! I still love to cycle, especially in the summer when I’m on holiday in Italy.

 Your style reads like a detective novel, your colours and codes adding up to a collection of clues. Would you associate fashion design with story-telling?

For sure! Fashion is about today and tomorrow. You never know what’s around the corner, just like in a detective novel!

 What will you do after answering these questions?

It’s lunchtime!

...

 

...

 

/ ITW by REMY RUSSOTTO /  Illustration by CEDRIK TOSELLI /

/ photography by MARTINE FOUGERON / production by MICHAEL MARSON /

www.paulsmith.co.uk

// ALL ABOUT ANTHONY //

ANTHONY VACCARELLO /BY/ BEHIND THE BLINDS 

 

 

EXCLUSIVE ITW with ANTHONY VACCARELLO

BY

 Anja Rubik, Caroline De Maigret, Julien Gallico, Luca Gadjus, Saif Mahdhi, Laetitia Crahay, David Alexander Flinn, Zahoua Raji, Saskia Lawaks, Emmanuel Tomasini, Barbara Martelo & Alastair McKimm.

&

FASHION STORY

Anja  : Who would you rather dress : Sharon Stone or Brigitte Bardot ?

A : Sharon, always...

ZahouaWhat is THE recollection of our adolescence that inspires you in your work ?

A : When I customised your Quick T-shirt when we were 17, and you got yourself fired because of it.

LucaHow is your creative process or work ethic ? Structured, scheduled, stoic-like e.g. Thomas Mann, or rather unpredictable and characterised by phases of creative highs and lows ?

A : Every day , every hour , every minute I'm thinking of shoes, details, attitude, … It's quite awful sometimes, because it can overtake me while I’m having a completely different conversation with someone. But I can't help it.

What follows is never scheduled. I have a problem with that. Once I’ve thought all about a moment, the realisation of the concept is quite evident and fast. But it never turns out like I thought… Which is frustrating, but it helps to move on to the next one, and to always question things.

 Caroline : Anthony, how do you define feminism, and do you consider yourself to be feminist ?

A : To me, being feminist today is to be free. To live for yourself and not for others. I believe to have done so since the beginning; the woman I dress is self-assured. Or at least I hope she is…

 Julien : Who would be THE person to have reborn ?

A : Nobody. Once it’s over, it’s time to pass on to other things.

Saif : Who is the inspiration for the final dress worn by Anja during the S/S 2013 défilé ?

A : That’s you of course … #discomarrakesh... ;-)

  Luca : What is your biggest fear, your worst nightmare ? Do you have any phobia ?

A : I’ve been a claustrophobic since I got stuck in an elevator in Casablanca five years ago. And I’m more and more afraid of taking a plane … I guess the more I take it, the more I risk having a crash … it’s just statistics. The older I grow, the more I’m scared of death.

  Luca : Your collections are more than visual delights. How would you recognise someone wearing an Anthony Vaccarello piece in a darkroom ?

A : By touching her …

Barbara : How come your clothes are so sexy ?

A : That's a question you have to answer.

 Laetitia : What is the best way for you to recover after the end of new collection ?

A : To spend time with friends and my family.

DAF : Where did you find Anthony ?

A : I found myself quite early I guess. At school in ’99, sketching on a wooden bench. It was there without knowing it could ever be a real job or business. It was just the desire to dress or undress a woman, which became reality in 2006. 

Barbara : Sooner or later you will be offered to be the Creative Director of a Major Brand … Would you put your own brand on hold to pursue that project, or would you try to keep both, even with fashion’s demanding calendar today ?

A : Everything is possible, depending on how things come to be, and which house is asking. But only one can ask me to so. I believe it’s impossible to do two brands with the same enthusiasm and energy. It would drive me crazy knowing that one would always be less good than the other.

I don’t think it’s about moving energy towards something else. I could also stop fashion altogether and put my creative energy in another field than fashion. I don’t want to see fashion as a goal itself.

Emmanuel : When will boys finally have the opportunity to dress in AV ? I for one would really love to…

A : There are quite a few pieces for men in the collections… It’s merely a question of looking… You already have Amber Valetta’s bomber jacket ;-)

 Saskia : What is the positive thought to makes you bounce back up when you are at the end of your strength ?

A : I rarely am at the end. And when I am, I fall… and think of nothing else. It’s quite rare.

AnjaWould you rather be Gianni Versace or do Gianni Versace ?

A : Being myself, having grown up with all Gianni Versace did in the 90´s.

 Alastair : What is today's obsession ?

A : Change.

 

...

 

 

/ production & photography by MICHAEL MARSON /

/ Illustration by CEDRIK TOSELLI by a portrait by Robbie Fimmano /

/ feat.  JONAS, LOUIS & VINNIE from Rebel Management, TYAS & KLAUDIA from Jill Models, CAROLINE DAVIS from IMM /

/ make-up & hair by Romain Sabau @ Touch Dominique /

/ All clothes from Anthony Vaccarello's collection / archives /

www.anthonyvaccarello.com