Anthony Vaccarello was in a sensual and seductive mood with the menswear show he unveiled in Los Angeles last night for the iconic House of Saint Laurent.

There are, in fact, several connections between the brand, Vaccarello himself and the city’s spirit, which brings bohemian nonchalance to mind. The Belgian has been traveling to California on many occasions since his teenage years, and he used a striking beach backdrop to showcase his precise vision of the Saint Laurent man.

Referencing Mick Jagger’s androgynous silhouette and his provocative style in the early 70s, the collection focused on glamorous tailoring, which was sharp but often embellished to give it a fresh and precious feel. While black dominated the color palette, shine and transparency were key within the show, keeping the simplest looks enticing. A double-breasted glitter pinstripe suit looked chic and effortless, while sheer caftans, harem pants and burnoose capes recalled Saint Laurent’s heady Marrakesh period, which was filled with laughter, parties and sumptuous decadence.

The strength of Vaccarello is to take that vision and bring it into modernity. Jackets were paired with tight, cut-off denim shorts, while bombers were covered in sequins, but worn with simple sneakers. A black shrunken waistcoat -embroidered with black beads- was styled over a crystal embellished satin shirt and paired with black skinny jeans. Mingling with the press after the show, Vaccarello confessed he had tried every single piece on and that he couldn’t wait to wear most of it. Now, that’s always a good sign.

/ Words by Philippe Pourhashemi /