// SAINT LAURENT SHIKI-IN //

Saint Laurent will reveal 16 unique pieces at colette, which are part of a special art and photography project by world renowned Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki. The artist captured Anja Rubik, integrating photography and painting techniques, exclusively for Saint Laurent and Anthony Vaccarello. The series, titled “Saint Laurent Shiki-in” (lust for color), merges elements of the world of Saint Laurent with the traditional themes of Araki’s work, a key figure in the modern world culture.

All of the pieces can be pre-ordered at colette through the Taka Ishii Gallery and will then be sent from Tokyo along with Araki’s label signature and certificate of authenticity.

Beginning on December 2nd and continuing through the 20th, the exhibition will be located on colette’s mezzanine, while the range of co-signed collector pieces will be displayed on the first floor.

// ABSTRACT VOYAGE //

On one hand, there’s the 1953 Albert Decaris etching that turned up in the Dior archives, a map of the five continents that retraces the House’s expansion around the world. On the other, there’s the couturier’s assertion in his autobiography, Dior by Dior: “A complete collection should address all types of women in all countries.” Both of these inspirations guided Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Artistic Director of women’s collections, in creating the Autumn-Winter 2017-2018 Haute Couture collection that celebrates the House’s 70th anniversary.

For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the atlas symbolizes a desire for faraway lands, the need to travel to discover the world and oneself, to feel emotion, grow and evolve. It evokes her own journey from Rome to Paris and her exploration of the Dior heritage. As restless as the first female explorers who overcame geographical and psychological frontiers, she is drawn to the heroine’s flair for borrowing elements from the masculine wardrobe and mixing them with ethnic pieces. Thanks to the designer’s sensitivity and new technologies, men’s wear fabrics are transformed into shimmering surfaces and chiaroscuro on jackets, coats, blouses and jumpsuits that recall aviator jackets and open into pleated culotte skirts. Meanwhile, the masculine fedora by Stephen Jones, the milliner who this year celebrates his 20th anniversary as Dior’s hat designer, nods to explorers such as Freya Stark.

The path taken in this homecoming becomes, for Maria Grazia Chiuri, a topography of emotions: colors, flowers and embroidered tarot cards themselves become atlases on capes and evening gowns in silk and tulle, in gray powdered with pink or nocturnal shades of velvet. This fairyland, an imaginary cartography that invents and challenges one’s point of view, recalls the monumental maps and globes of grand interiors: they relay the power of feminine literary roamings, sprinkled with explorations of culture and style.

The artist Pietro Ruffo, with whom Maria Grazia Chiuri shares a creative bond, designed the decor,
which retraces the Earth and the celestial sphere with poetic grace.

 

/ Video by Manon Gicquel /

/ Photography by Sarah Moon /

- Courtesy DIOR - 

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// CHANEL @ COLETTE //

The must-go shop Colette will host from October 30th to November 25th 2017 the iconic Parisian brand Chanel on its 1st floor.

This collaboration will include different happenings around the theme of music, beauty talks, ready-to-Wear pieces, accessories from FW17 and the 17/18 Cruise collections and many surprises, presented in a dreamlike atmosphere …a unique experience not to be miss.

 

www.colette.fr

/ by Xavier Bourgeois / 

 

// A TO Z //

The alphabet is undoubtedly the favourite area of expression of Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag, who have had fun redefining the outline of the iconic crocodile from "A to Z". Graphically redesigned according to the geometry of the letters composing the brand's name, the L stylises the crocodile's tail while the E represents its open mouth. The products in a capsule collection and a limited edition thus take on a new look for a time while these artists work with us.

www.lacoste.com

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// HONEST BY Y/PROJECT //

Honest By and Y/Project just launched a limited 6-piece collection: genderless, organic, responsible and transparent are the key words of this collaboration. It’s a second shot for Glenn Martens at Honest by after designing the first collection in 2012.

Bruno Pieters, Honest By founder, describes Y/Project as “…a very honest brand already. Glenn has built his team with a whole new generation of people. Very faithful, very loyal. He has the ability to take the best of what is offered to him and make it his own. He always appreciated what I was doing and was interested in it so is now already very conscious of the environment. Already for SS18 there was no leather in the show."

For his part, Glenn has followed Honest By since the beginning: “To me it has always been one of the most ground-breaking luxury brands in the industry. A lot of young, so called ‘hype brands’ are claiming they want to change fashion or break the industry. But only Honest By has challenged its core and has addressed that which really matters.”

www.honestby.com

/ by Xavier Bourgeois / 

// THOM BROWNE / BACKSTAGE SS18 //

Our exclusive inside at the Thom Browne SS18 backstage. 

/ Captured by LARA GASPAROTTO at both_productions /

// SHE WALKS IN BEAUTY //

"She walks in beauty" is the name of the last exhibition which takes place at the ModeMuseum, Antwerp. From the 12th october until the 18th march 2018, Olivier Theyskens, the fascinating Belgian designer, shows us his creative evolution of twenty years in the fashion business, his craftsmanship and the changing atmospheres of his work through a multitude of silhouettes imbued with couture spirit. "Olivier Theyskens – She Walks in Beauty" takes us on a journey accompanied by literary voices forming a counterpoint to the visual world, photographs, films and drawings of the artist's creative process.

Olivier Theyskens is known for the dark romantic side of his early designs, the new vision of couture he instilled at Rochas, his mastering of textiles and cut at Nina Ricci. His extraordinary talent for drawing and autodidactic work method give a great insight into the different aspects of the contemporary fashion industry: from couture to semi-couture and ready-to-wear. The Theyskens muse changes through time: she’s romantic, mysterious, strong and elegant, both young and old, but she walks in beauty wherever she goes.

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www.momu.be

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/ by Laurenne Makubikua /

// ANN DEMEULEMEESTER / BACKSTAGE SS18 //

/ Photography by #HONIGSCHRECK /

Detlef Honigstein and  Timmi Taubenschreck / 

 

 

 

// HERMES / BACKSTAGE SS18 //

Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski designed pure forms of graphic playfulness for SS18 women’s ready-to-wear, a collection filled with freshness and accurate elegance.

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/ Photography by Wai Lin Tsé /

/ Words by Xavier Bourgeois /

// A.P.C. TRANSMISSION //

Jean Touitou publishes A.P.C. Transmission, a retrospective of the brand, personal scrapbook and visual diary with texts, invitations, postcards, campaigns, pictures of their stores and collaborations.

The A.P.C. founder describes this book as “an owner’s manual because that is what it is. You own this book now, here is how it works. First, I called the book Transmission for a very simple reason. I just want to pass information and feelings in a smooth way. As in the song ‘Pass the Dutchie’ if you will. I guess thisis going to be called the A.P.C. book, which is fine by me. Still, I’ll insist on calling it Transmission since, in today’s world, things disappear in some suffocating digital space. I thought that an actual book would be good for this search for a past that could be so easily lost if not transmitted in printed matter.

The book is made of three parts: “Percept”, a series of collage from Jean Touitou’s life before A.P.C.; “Written material”, texts written by J.T. to help readers understand what A.P.C. is; and “Catalogue Raisonné”, a portfolio of almost everything that has been done by A.P.C..

The Transmission T-shirts is available alongside the book. There is a printed picture of Jean Touitou on it wearing a T from the American Garage band called “Kenny and the Kasuals” from 1977. Jean was selling their records at the time through his mail-order record shop “Road Runner”. A picture of merch, used as merch.  

A.P.C.

/ by Xavier Bourgeois /

// ARCA X RYUICHI SAKAMOTO //

The Venezuelan producer, songwriter and performer Arca has just shared a remix of “async” composed by the legendary Japanese artist Ryuichi Sakamoto.

This remix will be featured on a companion album related to “async” with other arrangements from Cornelius, Motion Graphics, Electric Youth, Jóhann Jóhannsson and Oneohtrix Point Never (out in fall). 

/ by Xavier Bourgeois /

// DREAMS, TEARS & FEARS //

David Alexander Flinn’s new exhibition at FHF’s north gallery is a journey through Dreams, Tears and Fears. The installations are immediately eye-catching and bring out a deep systematism, detailed and careful engagement; the whole work tainted with humor, vibrancy and provocative audacity. 

David describes his Dreams, Tears and Fears as

” an exploration of the spaces in our contemporary narrative of fiction and reality, the borders and the blurred lines between what is true and what is perceived. Who is who, what is what and why is it so? If a tree falls in the woods and no one is there to hear it, did it ever happen? What are our guidelines for a contemporary existence? 

Dreams are a glance into our subconscious often forgotten or misinterpreted by our awakening. Within life's new parameters, is reality a dream? Where have our dreams gone? Are they our nightmares? Where do we live and how?

The only thing we are left with is our nature and our tears, whether joyful or sorrowful. What is left that is "real" is our emotional experience.

Sweet dreams”

 

87 Rivington st, NY .

07/09/17- 15/10/17

 

by Xavier Bourgeois / 

// MONOCHROME //

First look at the new Camper’s shoe campaign by Romain Kremer with director Daniel Sannwald.

In new Romain Kremer’s techno journey, Rossy de Palma and five other “dreamlike characters” are evolving in a bright monochrome colour universe which immersed us in the ever-expanding Camper’s eccentric and surreal world.

www.camper.com

 

/ by Xavier Bourgeois / 

// VINCENT G. X SAINT LAURENT //

First look at the new SAINT LAURENT by Anthony Vaccarello men SS18’s campaign staring the iconic Vincent Gallo under the lens of David Sims.

// ÊTRE MODERNE //

This fall, Fondation Louis Vuitton is inviting the Museum of Modern Art in Paris to present an outstanding exhibition of more than 200 masterpieces and works of art from the New York museum.

This exhibition will highlight the fundamental impact of the museum, conservators and programs on the 20th and 21st art history.

The collaboration brings to the fore MoMA’s legendary artistic commitment to Paris and reflects the desire of both institutions to remain moderne forever.

“Être moderne: le MoMA à Paris” will take place at Fondation Louis Vuitton from October 11 to March 5.

 

www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr

/ by Xavier Bourgeois / 

// KOOL THING //

To celebrate the launch of their LA design atelier, & Other Stories teamed up with Sonic Youths former member Kim Gordon. The brand wished to work with Kim as they found themselves inspired by her creativity, style and artistic integrity.

Her ability to not conform is something that is very much encouraging for women all around the globe. She approached this collaboration in a very creative way and generated patterns based on colours and words, her favourite ones.

Her daughter Coco Gordon Moore is modelling the series of sweats and t-shirts she designed. She definitely inherited that one thing we all envy Kim for.

That kool thing, it’s a family thing.

/ by Gaelle Van Lede /