In his sophomore collection, Sabato De Sarno solidifies his vision for Gucci. After two ready-to-wear collections that mirrored each other, his second womenswear show demonstrates his ability to usher in a new era for the Italian brand.
With a strong emphasis on craftsmanship, the designer draws inspiration from Gucci’s ancient history. The dedication to technique is beautifully exemplified in this season’s outerwear. Boxy peacoats are expertly cut. Oversized leather jackets conceal the brand’s monogram. But his vision shines through in the long coats that, while draping beautifully on the body, are also extensively adorned at the bottom. The cacophony of sequins creates an almost fluid sense of movement as the models walk. It’s this interplay between craft and adornment that defines the new Gucci.
The heavy outerwear is punctuated by delicate slip dresses, some in rich velvet, others in unbelievably complex lace. They were complemented by the knee-high boots that stole the show, in shades of Ancora red, black or green.
De Sarno’s tenure at Valentino appears to have paid off. The designer expands Gucci's colour palette beyond his last two collections, where the already classic Ancora red was masterfully mixed with deep navy blues and funky greens. This season, pale yellows and bubblegum pinks are added to the chic rainbow.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
