The beauty of fashion is that it can thrive and inspire us even in the toughest circumstances. Against all odds, and despite last-minute changes and cancellations, the organizers of Pitti Immagine Uomo 101 managed to deliver a high-quality and relevant fair, which underlined the willingness of brands to commit themselves socially, as well as ecologically.
An important stop within menswear fashion, and the first place where one perceives new trends and directions, Florence’s Pitti Immagine Uomo was finally back in its physical format last week, welcoming 4900 buyers, more than 8000 visitors and 548 menswear collections. In a heartfelt press release where he thanked his staff and collaborators, as well as international press, buyers, exhibitors in attendance and anyone else involved with the event, Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, emphasized gratitude and joy, as well as the willingness to go forward and embrace our future. Starting the fashion year with such a clear, generous and positive message within one of Italy’s most historical cities did feel like a blessing.
In fact, the fair beautifully combined some of Italy’s heritage brands with complete newcomers, focused on finding humane and more respectful ways to design and manufacture. An area dedicated to 10 upcoming sustainable brands, S/Style sustainable style felt particularly relevant and exciting, showing how upcycling, creativity and aesthetics can successfully come together. More than ever, young designers are looking for innovative ways to do their work, while taking society, their peers and the environment into consideration. Could this shift signal the end of hype and persistent buzz, which have ruled menswear over the past 3 years? It was inspiring to hear such brands talk about their core values as much as their products, and how you could see there was coherence from start to finish. Clothing for clothing’s sake is no longer aspirational, but using fashion as a way to deliver a strong message, whether social or political, is definitely in.
Amongst the key figures that emerged from this last edition, psychedelic dandies took center stage, with a focus on stripes and mix-and-match patterns, as well as stronger colors, such as orange -which was everywhere- and bright yellow. Within the busy central pavilion of the Fortezza di Basso, Piacenza Cashmere presented a striking collection within their booth, fusing deluxe materials with dramatics shapes and bold color pairings. This kind of bravado and confidence is exactly what you expect from Italian fashion and the omnipresence of bright shades this season gave a youthful and dynamic edge to several collections. Knitwear has also become a key area within the fair, perhaps due to the pandemic and our willingness to dress warmly and comfortably at home. High-end family companies, such as FTC Cashmere for instance, understood that it’s no longer about exploiting resources to make great product, but also offering something in return. The brand opened a school in China, within the region where their pieces are produced, ensuring that more than 1000 children can attend and get an education. Those kinds of initiatives should multiply in the near future, showing a desire from luxury brands and the industry at-large to contribute to society as a whole.
It was therefore no surprise that Pitti Immagine Uomo chose ‘Reflections’ as its title and central theme. Now is the right moment to rethink the way the industry has operated and pave the way for change. Looking at the dressed-up ‘Pitti Peacocks’ waiting to get their picture taken somehow felt like a strange memory from the past. Perhaps it’s time for fashion to commit itself to societal issues instead of emphasizing vanity and narcissism. This is something young designers are highly aware of, looking for creative and inspiring ways to do fashion.
