ON BELONGING

In his first solo show Vandals, Winter Vandenbrink explores the idea of belonging, examining the relationship between the youth and their daily environments. Titled after a 1945 text by German philosopher Theodor W. Adorno, a work which has a leading influence on the Dutch photographer’s artistic practice, the exhibition delves into the impact that rising consumerism and mass culture have on individuality.

 Showcased at the Von Der Hoeden Contemporary gallery in Hamburg, the 13 unique works display a candid look into the youth subcultures of the modern European metropolises. The subjects, mostly unaware of being photographed, are captured during their daily hangouts in the urban landscape – linking up in the public spaces of their cities to chat, skate and perhaps cause a little bit of trouble.

 The raw photographs bring the role of fashion in shaping these communities to the forefront. Through wearing instantly recognisable garments from mega sports corporations like Adidas and Nike or brands like Calvin Klein, adolescents are able to effectively express their desire to belong to a specific group. Vandenbrink’s evocative images act as a vocabulary, introducing the viewers to the visual language that connects his subjects and inviting them to question the concept of authenticity in the contemporary world.


Vandals by Winter Vandenbrink is on view at Von Der Hoeden Contemporary in Hamburg from April 19 to May 23.


Words by Martin Onufrowicz

LDSS FW24 BACKSTAGE

Fall/Winter 2024 brings Ludovic de Saint Sernin to New York City, where the brand presents its first runway show outside of Paris. A toast to one of the city’s most emblematic artists, the runway becomes a forum for the exploration of the fertile common ground between the work of Robert Mapplethorpe and the label’s founder. Charting a journey from seeming innocence to dark eroticism, the collection ponders the delicate tension between the two. As Mapplethorpe famously remarked of his flower photographs:

“Beauty and the devil are the same thing.”


Photography by Wojciech Christopher Nowak

SAINT LAURENT BABYLONE

SAINT LAURENT BABYLONE, opens its doors at 9 rue de Grenelle in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. The name Saint Laurent Babylone refers to the historical ties of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé to the Sèvres-Babylone neighborhood. SAINT LAURENT BABYLONE is a new cultural destination and bookstore in the heart of Paris, dedicated to art, culture and new modes of expression.

Created by Saint Laurent Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello, this new incarnation of the SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE offers a diverse and globe-spanning collection of books, art, and music, as well as a new genre of cultural space. SAINT LAURENT BABYLONE is a gathering place in the heart of Paris for artistic innovators where connections and ideas can be born. More than a traditional bookstore, the space offers an unparalleled collection of books, art and music. lt is also a new destination for cultural events, from DJ sessions to author readings and signings. Each item in SAINT LAURENT BABYLONE, from rare books to SLRD Editions or subversive publications and out-of-print musical recordings or original productions, has been curated by Anthony Vaccarello.

Anthony Vaccarello's extensive and diversified offer in different areas of culture and design allows him to imagine and adopt new ways of extending the Saint Laurent universe and DNA.


ENDLESS SUMMER MIU MIU SS24 CAMPAIGN

The Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 campaign features a diverse cast including May Andersen, Emma Corrin, Angel Haze, Lexie Liu, Demi Singleton, and Cailee Spaeny. The visuals showcase a disheveled chic, with bold and simple portraits capturing a vivid sense of beauty in a hard-to-define space illuminated by the Los Angeles sun. The multi-disciplinary cast, including actors, singers, and models, is depicted in motion with overflowing bags, creating an ambiguous narrative of leaving or returning home. The campaign embraces a prototypical wardrobe, blending swimwear, sportswear, evening wear, and various textures like lightweight wool and cotton drill tailoring. Materials are treated to evoke vintage finds, emphasizing the value of history and memories in fashion. The irreverent yet knowledgeable style incorporates surprising juxtapositions, connecting the meaning of clothes and reflecting the complexity and plurality of the contemporary world. The overall mood is one of positivity and joy, capturing lives lived at their best.


LOEWE SS24 MEN’S CAMPAIGN

The LOEWE men's campaign, captured by David Sims, emphasizes the performative nature of the SS24 collection through gestures and movements that define characters. Golden-Globe nominated actor and LOEWE Global Brand Ambassador, Jamie Dornan, and singer-songwriter Omar Apollo are featured in intense moments mid-performance. Jamie appears contemplative and intense, as if at an audition or screen test, while Omar is shown performing on a circular stage or entering a glittery room. The images freeze time, highlighting the intimacy of emotional conversations and the raw energy of performing. The campaign showcases the leathers, knits, and glittery surfaces of the clothing, with accessories like Screen sunglasses, Puzzle Fold tote, and Puzzle bag adding nuance to the characters. Still-life pictures also capture bags and shoes in action, collapsing, folding, or standing on a podium. Overall, the campaign focuses on the performative subject, portraying life and image-making as a means to capture it.


MIU MIU UPCYCLED 24

Miu Miu introduces its fourth limited edition Upcycled collection, focusing on Denim and Patch bags for 2024. Born in 2020, the Upcycled initiative emphasizes the value of vintage clothing, narrating stories of past wearers and promoting circular design practices.

The Denim collection features pre-2000 jeans sourced globally, emphasizing color, weight, and fading qualities. The handcrafted process preserves outer seams, reimagining wardrobe archetypes and accessories for modern use. Flower embroideries draw inspiration from 1950s haute couture, now reimagined in black. Additionally, the Upcycled project includes leather Patch bags made from remnants of Miu Miu designs, highlighting heritage and tradition.

The 2024 collections, brought to life by actor Ever Anderson and model Huijia Chen in visuals by Jet Swan, underscore character, casting, and the intimate connection between garments and wearers.

The Aura Blockchain Consortium ensures transparency and customer-centric practices, verifying each piece in the collection.

The Miu Miu Upcycled Denim and Patch bag collections are available in selected stores worldwide and online.

SL X CHAMPS-ELYSEES

Throughout his tenure as the creative director at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello has been emphasizing the house’s long-standing relationship with the art sphere. Just recently, the brand has supported two great cultural initiatives - providing patronage on Juergen Teller’s new exhibition ‘i need to live’ at the Grand Palais Éphémère and funding the opening of the Serge Gainsbourg’s house museum in Paris.

 This sentiment is reflected in the opening of Saint Laurent Champs-Élysées – the label’s largest flagship store to date. At the vast new space, located in one of the historical Haussmann-era buildings, Vaccarello’s sharp collections are carefully displayed amongst the furniture works by artist Donald Judd and an especially commissioned neon light sculpture by Cerith Wyn Evans. The rough textures and marble displays create an exciting sense of tension in the striking and luminous interior.

 Aside from being a famous shopping destination, the store’s location is a loving nod to the house’s founder. “I wanted to realize one of Yves Saint Laurent’s wishes when he arrived in Paris and said he wanted his name to be written in fiery letters on the Champs-Élysées,” says Vaccarello. Now, this wish has become a reality – a truly refined one.

www.ysl.com



VOLTAIRE VICE

Over the seasons, Zadig&Voltaire has established itself as the epitome of irreverent elegance, skillfully flirting between a Parisian heritage and a constantly renewed modernity. This autumn, the brand goes one step further by unveiling Voltaire Vice, a lifestyle capsule.

With this drop, ZV reveals everyday objects in a new light: its own. Whether ostensibly functional or addictively superfluous, they are all reinterpreted with a touch of art and style.

Playing with fire, the label has created a black matchbox called "Matches Made in Heaven," a refined lighter, and a gold lighter case. The helmets created in collaboration with Marko Helmets, like the leather bracelets, gloves, and gold cup, are adorned with wings, the eternal emblem of ZV. The cheeky motto "Je m'en fous" ("I don't give a damn") is featured on the playing cards and water bottle. Enhanced with new universes and creations, the Zadig&Voltaire wardrobe becomes more fascinating than ever.

Much more than a drop, this series of objects is part of the house's desire to extend its field of expression, while merging the art of lifestyle and the one of fashion. An invitation to celebrate beauty in simplicity, the extraordinary in the everyday.

MIU MIU HOLIDAY

A sense of intimacy, elegance and charm. Cultivated dress codes redrawn for the here and now. An expression of beauty reconsidered for the many facets of life today. 

Starring actor Emma Corrin, Miu Miu Holiday occupies a home, a private space, open to infinite possibilities and interpretation.

 The mood is refined: an eased opulence and languor prevails in a filmic environment 

familiar to the person who inhabits it, who is cultured and confident - comfortable in their own skin. A contemporary and highly individual spirit embraces innovation just as it does savoir faire. 

 Incarnations of glamour and elegance past enrich and inform, always with the present and future in mind. 

 Miu Miu collaborated with Marshall to create a joint line of their iconic products and with Polaroid for cameras complete with branded web camera straps.


MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT SS24

Photography by Robin Joris

ZOMER SS24


Photography by Robin Joris

SAINT LAURENT X MAISON GAINSBOURG

Maison Gainsbourg, in partnership with Saint Laurent, is opening its doors in Paris (7th). The experience is divided in two distinct sites : the first emblematic site is the historic house where Serge Gainsbourg lived for 22 years, at 5 bis rue de Verneuil.

Across the street, at number 14, is the museum retracing the artist’s life and career, including a bookshop-boutique and a café-piano-bar, Le Gainsbarre. Maison Gainsbourg’s museum is exhibiting some 450 original objects, including Serge Gainsbourg’s one-button women’s jacket with tennis stripes.

For the occasion, the iconic jacket was redesigned by Saint Laurent under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello. Available in SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE stores and in the Maison Gainsbourg’s boutique.

In 1981, Serge Gainsbourg discovered Stefan de Jaeger’s work and asked him to make a portrait of himself. The portrait is on display in Serge Gainsbourg’s historic house, while SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE Paris and Los Angeles will exhibit 2 of the artist’s original artworks named ‘Portraits of men’. Stefan de Jaeger was one of the first visual artists to use instant photography with Polaroid cameras to create large, painterly compositions. He took part in the Gainsbourg exhibition at the Cité de la Musique in 2008, which featured a portrait of Serge Gainsbourg, the visual for the exhibition’s official poster. As a nod to this partnership, the windows of the SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE boutiques will feature the same facade as the one on Serge Gainsbourg’s house.

An exclusive selection of vintage Serge Gainsbourg vinyls and books will be available for sale in stores and on YSL.COM.

MIU MIU WOMEN’S TALES COMMITTEE PROJECT

During the Venice Film Festival's "Giornate degli Autori" on September 3rd, Miu Miu premiered two new films as part of its Women’s Tales series: "Stane" by Croatian filmmaker Antoneta Alamat Kusijanović and "Eye two times mouth" by Mexican director Lila Aviles. A two-day conversation program on September 3rd and 4th, hosted by Penny Martin from The Gentlewoman, brings together directors, advocates, and advisors to discuss challenges and opportunities in female filmmaking. The event also marked the introduction of the new Miu Miu Women’s Tales Committee, consisting of influential figures like Ava DuVernay, Maggie Gyllenhaal, and Catherine Martin, aimed at shaping the series' future direction and outreach efforts. Celebrating its second decade, Women’s Tales remains a unique platform for female filmmakers, with the Committee focusing on expanding its impact and narrative.


CHURCH’S X MIU MIU

For Fall/Winter 2023, Miu Miu is pleased to announce a collaboration with Church’s shoes, infusing the formality of the heritage brand with the free spirit the Miu Miu name represents. The launch is celebrated by a still and moving image campaign using a timelessly beautiful gentleman’s armchair, richly upholstered in archive Miu Miu fabric, as a stage.

Multiple positions and gestures are adopted by models wearing the Miu Miu ready-to-wear collection with the Church’s X Miu Miu brogue and double monk strap shoe. The comfort of the armchair and languor of the poses is in direct contrast to the polite and conventional perception of the designs.

Crafted in glossed brushed leather and in classic shades of black and tobacco the Church’s X Miu Miu shoes are rounded and broader in shape than the originals that inspire them. A malleable, non-slip and sporty moulded rubber sole replaces leather. The patterned serration that characterizes both styles is in place. Further rich detailing includes the Miu Miu logo on the tongues of the shoes and embossed into the sides of the soles and the Church’s X Miu Miu logo printed on the insoles. The double monk strap shoes are further embellished with the classic wing-tip motif that emphasizes the British foundations of Church’s.

Miu Miu’s signature play between the traditional and the contemporary is upheld. The reassurance of the familiar is at once celebrated and subverted – undone - to create something new.

Church's X Miu Miu products will be available in avant-première on miumiu.com from August 29 and in Miu Miu stores from September 6th .


CELINE HOMME PORTRAIT OF AN ACTOR

LEVON HAWKE

photographed by Hedi Slimane, as part of the PORTRAIT OF AN ACTOR series.


NEW YORK - JUNE 2023

LGN SS24 BACKSTAGE


Photography by Cole Fawcett

LDSS SS24 BACKSTAGE