When it was announced that Achilles Ion Gabriel would launch his namesake brand, there was a sense of general excitement. The Finnish designer has become synonymous with surrealist footwear throughout his tenure in the industry. But would he be able to expand his point of view upwards on the body? The answer: objectively yes.
His Fall/Winter 2024 show was a natural extension of the creative vision he’s familiarized us with. The accessories and footwear were, as expected, a standout. Long belts adorned both the model’s waists and shoulder bags. Cowboy boots had metal tips that read “Move Bitch”.
The Finnish designer started from the ground up, introducing wardrobe essentials with a Gabrielian twist. Wrinkled suits, shirts with detached collars and fur-lined denim jackets. Additionally, we got to see the birth of the brand’s codes —arguably the most compelling aspect of a debut collection. CAMPERLAB fans might recognize some of Gabriel’s staples: painted leather, cowhide and the grey-blue shade that now acts as the brand’s official colour, appropriately named AIG blue.
If last season the industry’s game of moving chairs had set our standards low for debut shows, Achilles Ion Gabriel moved them back up.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
