“Ogni tanto, lo so, sogni anche tu, e sogni di noi” (“Every now and then, I know, you dream too, and you dream of us”). The artist Valerio Eliogabalo Torrisi’s words painted a wall in Milan in preparation for the Gucci Fall/Winter 2024 menswear show. Coincidentally, that’s all we’ve been doing for the past few days, dreaming of Sabato De Sarno’s second collection. Or rather, after Gucci’s new (Ancora) red-hot campaign, wet dreaming.

We hoped De Sarno’s first menswear offering would carry the same sensuality. Our prayers were heard. But, much like his earlier debut, the Italian designer defines sexy on his terms. Heavy chains grasped the models’ necks while their chests were exposed under heavy coats. Jackets were worn with nothing underneath except for ties with clasps that gave them a collar-like quality.

The show opened with a familiar sight, a male counterpart to the opening look of his debut womenswear collection. Between cement pillars of the venue, a similarly neutral palette emerged, interrupted only by subtle pops of colour. Leather gloves, both in muted lime green and the now characteristic cherry red matched the bags they grasped.

Despite the sensual sobriety of the collection, there was an underlying opulence. Whether on the collar of oversized cardigans, on trousers or drowning a sailor collar, sparkle is a definite neutral in the designer’s book.

De Sarno furthers his creative narrative with his second collection for the Italian heritage brand. In a show that acted as the brother to his womenswear debut, the designer reaffirms the new Gucci codes.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

GUCCI FW24

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