It’s easy for fashion to feel thematic. In an industry commanded by the search for novelty, collections can feel like limited-edition capsules rather than narrative expansions. Chanel doesn’t commit such sins. With a savoir-faire that extends well beyond a century, the maison isn’t bound by themes; instead, it pursues a continuous search to interpret its own industry-revolutionising legacy. Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2025/26 is the perfect example. In what was the last collection presented before Matthieu Blazy’s debut in September, the design team presented a look back into the house’s earliest history. Harkening back to its founder’s fascination with the Scottish Moors, rustic elements tamed the extravagance a Couture collection usually implies.
Gabrielle Chanel, the omnipresent muse to the maison she founded, is considered through her earliest mission: to coarsen an otherwise delicate female wardrobe. Male silhouettes were the most explicit executions of the creative mission. Structured jackets and coats were rigid but loose, built to allow for freedom of movement. Tweed hooded jacket-and-short sets had a distinctively military inspiration, brought forward further by leather boots that extended past the shorts’ length.
Compared to the collections the team has presented since Virginie Viard’s departure, this season felt more considered, less whimsical. Dark greens, muted ochres, and dirty whites reigned over the colour palette. The natural inspiration continued in white tweed manipulated to resemble sheepskin, and feathers twisted to imitate wheat ears. The set, too, informed the direction. Made to resemble the Haute Couture salons at 31, rue Cambon, the Grand Palais merged the iconic location with an outdoor feel, combining its decorative elements with a wide, open space.
The collection’s biggest success was in the delicate balance it managed to keep for all 46 looks. Yes, it was masculine and comfortable, but it was elegant and decadent, nonetheless. An embellished, fur-collared cropped jacket was sweet when complemented by a draped silk skirt. A high-collared white coat, even if structured, was gilded by feathered sleeves.
While the excitement is palpable for Blazy’s debut, the stint the design team had in creatively leading all Chanel collections is reaffirming. Beyond the mythology of genius designers, Chanel’s legacy is enough to guarantee its narrative upkeep.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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