For Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Kim Jones continues the celebration of the Roman brand’s 100th anniversary. Marking the first womenswear show of the centenary, the designer reflects on the emotional and historical depth of a legacy that spans a century.
The emotional resonance became evident as soon as the speakers came to life, projecting the voices of Silvia Venturini Fendi and Anna Fendi—Fendi’s artistic director of accessories and menswear and her mother—who spoke about the house’s history, not just as a brand but as a family. Jones often draws inspiration from this personal aspect of the brand. Silvia’s daughter, Delfina, is not only the brand’s jewellery designer but also Jones’ frequent muse. It’s no surprise, then, that this celebratory collection highlights the fact that at its core, Fendi is a family business.
That’s not, of course, all the brand is. Fendi has spanned a century of cultural revolutions. To convey the house’s broader significance, Jones drew inspiration from the decade in which Fendi began as a leather goods manufacturer. 1925 not only marked the peak of the Roaring Twenties but also the year of the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, which spawned the Art Deco movement. The artistic influence was evident as soon as the models started walking down the runway. Geometric patterned transparent dresses, one of which featured long fringes at the hemline were the first to appear on the runway. The nod to flapper-like flair wasn’t always as overt—short shift dresses were layered with transparent shirts embroidered with delicate, shiny flowers.
The collection’s inspiration extended beyond aesthetics; there was a clear historical dimension to Jones’ vision. Casual separates and sportswear were integrated with the historical references popularized in the 1920s. Despite a clear inspiration source, Jones’ collection didn’t read as a Great Gatsby (high-budget) recreation — there was a palpable modern whimsy. An upside-down slip dress dangled its spaghetti straps at the model's ankles while Red Wing work boots accompanied most looks.
As expected in any Fendi celebration, the Baguette was omnipresent. Fringes, charms, furry bouquets: the ever-iconic bag appeared in every conceivable size, shape, and texture. Perhaps the emblematic accessory best encapsulates Fendi’s ability to navigate an unpredictable zeitgeist— always changing, always consistent.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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