showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
CELINE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LOUIS VUITTON SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LACOSTE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
VALENTINO SS25

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SAINT LAURENT FW25

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It’s a beautiful day in Paris, not just because it marks the grand finale of a chaotic fashion month but because it’s the most exciting one of all: the Saint Laurent day. In an industry prone to turbulence, Anthony Vaccarello remains a steady purveyor of pleasure for fashion lovers.

Much like last season, where there was a clear distinction between two sequences, the same was true here—only reversed. Last September, powerful, neutral-colored suiting was followed by jewel-hued, lace-layered pieces (the last of which was undoubtedly the look of the season—seen on everyone from Chloë Sevigny to Amelia Gray). This time around, the bright colours came first, with beautifully defined shoulders and straight-hipped dresses in Yves Saint Laurent’s classically bold shades.

The shift that followed was subtle yet striking. The silhouettes remained constant, but the statement emerged in the details—different colours, textures, and transparencies. Blurred floral and animal prints in shiny, sheer midi dresses shimmered hypnotically as models walked down the runway. Complementing the ethereal dresses, leather jackets featured an architectural, boxy structure—not cinched at the waist as one might expect, but resting lower on the hips, adding an unexpected edge.

Moving through the wonderfully neutral venue, the models first marched like colourful ants in a mesmerizing rhythm—until they didn’t. The vibrant short dresses faded into long, neutral-hued gowns and oversized jackets, each still following the same precise silhouette but now exuding a more grounded, composed elegance.

In a season that swung between the daring and the dreary, Vaccarello’s assured vision was a breath of fresh air. His consistency wasn’t just reliable—it was exhilarating.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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LACOSTE FW25

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The Lacoste Fall/Winter ’25 show was a celebration of the brand's very essence. Presented on a circular stage at Roland Garros, the collection, conceived by Pelagia Kolotouros, merged sportswear with tailoring, comfort with precision. Titled An Invitation, it showcased the brand’s ability to imprint elegance onto sporty clothing. More than just an athletic silhouette, the collection was casual while embracing the codes of understated luxury. It exuded Sunday brunch vibes and the ambiance of a café on a terrasse in the 16th arrondissement.

Oversized tailoring, loose-fitting trousers, and skirts that moved freely down the runway, evoking comfort and effortless style, were seen throughout. This created a fresh and youthful take on leisurewear, where the ease and comfort of the silhouettes were elevated by the quality of the textures. The quintessential tennis garment, the polo shirt, was present and reinterpreted in various colours and materials. Whites and deep browns dominated the runway, creating a luxurious feel, while black and forest green added a rich visual depth.

The different shapes of the garments created a visually striking collection. Ample silhouettes hid the natural curves of the body, creating a shape that was straight yet flattering. Puffed garments, including coats, were central to the collection, creating a bold silhouette and disrupting the classic and timeless style of the brand. Tailored suits in magenta pink were unexpected but added a refined and elegant touch to the collection, far from the typical sportswear aesthetic. Pieces adorned with metallic beads and sweaters in sparkling materials stood out, offering a modern and bold approach.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

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LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN FW25

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Ludovic de Saint Sernin means business – quite literally. Following his über-sexy guest Haute Couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, the French designer is back with a more demure proposition for Fall/Winter 2025. But fear not, the kink is still there!

The collection opened with a total black look, featuring an oversized menswear-inspired wool coat and a fitted suit. Sounds like office-appropriate attire? That’s the point – in interviews backstage, de Saint Sernin said that he wanted to create a wardrobe for his fantasy workplace. And since it’s a fantasy we’re talking about (and an LdSS one at that), the look was made more naughty by being paired with a leather bustier with the brand’s signature corset detail.

Throughout the show, models strutted down the runway in the designer’s variations on classic tailoring – from pinstriped dresses to camel wool coats. The sexy aspect was still intrinsic to the proposition. A black double-breasted coat was worn with a pair of leather trousers and hot red gloves. Fur coats were cinched by oversized belts that seemed to be an homage to Azzedine Alaïa’s masterful sensuality. A strapless leather top in dark green was paired with bootcut wool trousers.

As for something for after hours? A black latex bikini worn under an oversized trench will do just the trick.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

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KENZO FW25

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The Kenzo Fall/Winter 2025 show was a fusion of diverse cultural influences, showcasing the brand’s multicultural approach and free-spirited mindset, imprinted by founder Kenzo Takada since its beginnings. Lucky Me? Lucky You was the name of the show, inspired by a sketch made by Kenzo featuring two stuffed rabbits. The playful and youthful inspiration is reminiscent of the brand’s heritage, where urban, humorous, and pop references are used to create sophisticated and tailored pieces.

The show featured eclectic styling, blending casual, street, and fluid elements. Booty shorts were styled with cardigans and crop tops. Silk gloves were paired with flats and socks. Slip tops were knotted around the waist over trousers, creating a chaotic yet innovative style. Oversized draped looks gave a sense of ease and comfort, contributing to an unpolished aesthetic—offering a not-so-serious, young, and fresh take on fashion.

Transparencies on women were part of the feminine and modern looks, while oversized suiting reflected the brand’s Japanese tailoring heritage. Far from being just playful, the collection showcased the label’s precise construction techniques, creating wearable pieces alongside creative styling. Girly accents such as delicate lingerie, tiny floral details on blazers and shirts, and delicate ribbon bows unified the collection. Baby shades of pink, green, and blue blended with the structure of black and white kimono jackets with satin borders.

The rabbits, the common thread of the collection, appeared as graphics on caps, vests, and jackets. Literal rabbit-shaped tops, jackets, and shearling-inspired slippers walked down the runway, reinforcing the playful aesthetic. Embracing the season’s trend, a big, dramatic coat was featured in the collection—this time in hot pink, echoing the stuffed animal inspiration. The overall collection not only highlighted the brand’s fun and playful side but also its bold approach to self-expression and its clean, precise tailoring.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

N°21 FW25

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s vision of clothing has always been poetic yet wearable. For his Fall-Winter ’25 collection, he infused a deep sense of storytelling through a cinematic lens. Inspired by the visual universe and feminine codes of Sofia Coppola, the collection presented a mix of structured pieces with delicate details, creating an intriguing duality.

The offering started with minimalist looks, with black as the central shade. Transparencies added a sensual touch, while oversized coats introduced a masculine energy. Mini bows brought innocence to an off-the-shoulder black dress, while animal print statement pieces disrupted the neutrality, creating a lavish atmosphere.

The show unfolded in a diverse colour palette, featuring combinations of greys and reds. Camel tones added a classic touch, while electric hues stood out from the rest. Deconstructed XXL bows adorned tops and dresses, disrupting the clean lines of the overall collection.

The show concluded with a more innocent, feminine, and playful aesthetic, with pastels as the central tones. Pinks, baby blues, and yellows were paired with delicate floral motifs, offering a timeless take on womenswear. Structured garments added sophistication, while the combination of oversized pieces, such as chunky coats, introduced an interesting and modern twist to an otherwise classic collection.

The overall proposition was a display of contrasts—elements that have always been part of the brand’s DNA. Short, sculptural dresses and leather skirts catered to the femme fatale, creating looks that were sexy yet subtle, while lingerie-style pieces evoked a sense of delicate sensuality. Outfits featuring oversized knitwear, flowy skirts, and buttoned-up shirts embraced a corporate-core aesthetic. Corduroy, wool, and organza all contributed to the collection’s visual richness.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

GUCCI FW25

In the wake of Sabato De Sarno’s recent departure, Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection answers an apparently simple yet disarmingly complex question: What does Gucci look like? 

After so many creative evolutions, what is the legacy that remains as we all (not so) patiently wait for the next one? It’s not easy to find the common thread between Tom Ford’s sex and Alessandro Michele’s extravagance, or Guccio Gucci’s original flair and De Sarno’s bejeweled minimalism. Yet, the in-house design studio responsible for the collection successfully did it. 

The runway, a striking interlocking 'G' motif, set the stage for a blend of eras. Models adorned in boxy mini-dresses, reminiscent of the mod sixties, paraded alongside ensembles featuring luxurious faux fur coats and satin slip dresses that echoed the dirty sensuality of the nineties. Of course, it wasn’t just a revisiting of the archives—there was depth to what was presented. A clear sign of this was the reimagination of the iconic horse-bit hardware, appearing as drop-chain neckties and enclosures on leather bags.

The amalgamation of men’s and women’s silhouettes wasn’t just a practical tactic but an interesting creative opportunity. The Gucci wardrobe was displayed without interruption. Even if the menswear was admittedly slicker and the womenswear quirkier (fur coats combined with lavender lingerie were undeniably camp), the collection read as a whole.

As the house stands at a crossroads and anticipation surrounding the appointment of a new creative director grows, Fall/Winter 2025 was reassuring. No matter what, Gucci will always be Gucci.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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BOTTEGA VENETA SS25

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Upon entering the venue of the Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2025 show, a zoo of sorts appeared right in front of the attendees’ eyes. Surrounded by dimmed light, a cornucopia of beanbags in the shape of animals – horses, foxes, rabbits, whales, elephants, you name it – provided the seating for the guests. This playful set-up instantly indicated what’s been on Matthieu Blazy’s mind this season. A sense of childlike wonder permeated the majority of the looks, creating a captivating contrast with the top-of-the-top level of craftsmanship that the Italian luxury brand is known for.

The offering began with a line-up inspired by the desires we have as children to try on our parents’ clothes. The tailoring’s proportions were blown up – the shoulders were ultra-wide and the lapels were almost touching the sleeves. And although Bottega’s signature elegance was out in full force, elements of unabashed glee started to peek through – from plastic-like bags (in leather, of course) with pictures of mermaids to a pink backpack nonchalantly hanging off the shoulder. The farm from the venue further found its way onto the presented garments. Frog brooches decorated long-sleeved dresses and cardigans, while a rabbit was printed on a creased T-shirt. Blazy also continued his favourite game of “Is it leather?” (it usually is), accessorizing the looks with woven flowers, shiny lunch bags, and even creating a sequined skirt made completely out of leather paillettes. The collection closed with a range of silhouettes paired with extravagant shaggy and spiky hats – a beautiful exclamation point to Blazy’s joyous vision for next spring.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

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DIESEL SS25

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As soon as guests stepped into the venue for the Diesel Spring/Summer 2025 show, it was a denim overload. The space, filled with almost 15,000 kg worth of denim scraps, was part of an immersive experience. Over the speakers, an AI voice recited the Wikipedia entry on denim. Since his appointment to the Italian brand, Glenn Martens has remained true to Diesel’s DNA. Even when he ventures creatively—last season’s waxed braided knitwear is still fresh in our minds—Diesel proudly remains a denim brand.

Martens' tenure has not only been creatively prosperous but has also marked a shift in the brand's sustainability practices. Under his leadership, the use of organic or recycled cotton has increased from 3% to 57%. We can exhale—the scraps that flood the venue floor will be repurposed too.

Aesthetically, this season felt like a paring back, a more minimalist approach compared to previous collections. In place of vibrant colours or seductively sheer creations, Martens created a homecoming of sorts. The collection opened with a series of distressed looks, with denim strings used as fringe, laces, and scarves.

The fraying extended beyond its original medium. Leather pieces had open wounds, bleeding fringe to mimic a distressed material. A Prince of Wales printed leather section was particularly mouthwatering. 

Leather was transformed and printed on to emulate denim with uncanny precision. There's an irony in that: leather, a more expensive textile, undergoes an equally costly process to resemble a more affordable material. But that encapsulates Diesel perfectly—as the voice that echoed through the venue before the show declared, "Diesel is denim."

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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GUCCI SS25

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Sabato De Sarno is celebrating his first anniversary at Gucci. Despite a year marked by uncertainty—a challenge that has plagued the entire industry—his Spring/Summer 2025 collection proves the designer’s vision for the brand is solid. This season, De Sarno found inspiration in a comforting source: the vacation he took with his family earlier in the year. Drawn to the jet-set glamour of a bygone era, the designer made Jackie O his muse.

The show, however, opened with familiar looks—what we've come to recognize as Sabato’s staples. Through his vision, minimalism is the quickest path to elegance. A fitted tank top paired with perfectly oversized trousers recalls the style of the chicest women we know.

Modern casualness soon gives way to the true inspiration for the collection. Gradually, ‘60s silhouettes and patterns emerge. Light twinsets and oversized sunglasses soon dominate the runway, while elsewhere, intricately fringed dresses create curved patterns on tailored coats.

The ‘60s feel like a natural home for De Sarno’s aesthetic. A lime green leather shift dress exemplifies this idea. Although the style is one the designer has referenced in the past, in the context of this collection, it feels perfectly at home.

The highlight of the show came in the form of ever-so-slightly puffed miniskirts. These delightfully architectural creations managed to feel both elegant and playful—a balance that defines De Sarno’s Gucci. 

The collection read like a celebration, especially by the end of the show, when 1986 hit Non voglio mica la luna blared through the speakers. As the audience started to sing along, so did the models, happily hopping down the runway, some even holding hands. It was a bright, joyful collection with a happy ending. Even amidst external uncertainty, De Sarno's sunshine shines through.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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EMPORIO ARMANI SS25

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In his first runway offering since his big 90th birthday celebrations this past July, Mr Armani showed in his latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Emporio Armani that his creativity is endless. Starting the show with one of his biggest signatures, the soft suiting, the Italian designer decorated the timeless looks (this time in blue and seafoam green checked wool fabrics) with classic silver ties emblazoned with the house’s instantly recognisable logos. Following this opening, Mr Armani caught our attention with the sets in vibrant pinks – from a Chinese-inspired jacket in heavy silk paired with transparent billowy chiffon trousers, to a printed short suit adorned with chunky buttons and accessorised with a silky beanie. Towards the eveningwear portion of the offering, the designer let the shimmer take centre stage. A sleeveless paillette top was worn with the glistening trousers in pale purple, while a black dress in the same fabric (albeit in black) made a chic statement with a hat tied on the neck with an oversized string which doubled as a necklace.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

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PRADA SS25

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Miuccia Prada has, over her 36 years in the industry, established an idiosyncratic authority. Her decisions are not guided by the same metrics as other designers because, as she has demonstrated season after season for almost four decades, she operates in a league of her own. Take Spring/Summer 2025 as an example. Those watching the collection unfold might have been perplexed as the 49 looks appeared on the runway. There seemed to be a lack of a clear "point"—the kind of poignant statement we’ve come to expect from Prada’s collections. Our best guess while observing in real time was "superhero." Yet, even then, we knew to wait for the intellectual purpose that fuelled the collection.

Echoes of the previous menswear collection appeared in trompe-l’oeil printed polos, wired collars, and a metallic miniskirt reminiscent of the sunglasses worn by male models just over three months ago. Oversized eyelet-filled—or rather, emptied—skirts and dresses caught the eye in bright metallics and shiny blacks. Headgear and extravagant eyewear were the main evidence in the superhero indictment, further fueled by a multitude of colourful tights. Confusion reigned as we tried to make sense of it all. Then, as soon as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons spoke backstage, the pieces of their clever puzzle fell neatly into place.

In a time of plurality, where the world is shaped by a powerful, Orwellian-like force, the duo chose to comment on the era we live in. Always an astute observer—though not a critic, as Mrs. Prada herself clarifies—the collection feels like a reflection on the blurring boundaries between real life and algorithmic control. Unpredictability itself is the catalyst for parka-covered feathered dresses or belted leggings. 

This concept pervaded the entire collection, from the way the looks were created—completely different from any of their previous collections, as the duo explained backstage—to the smallest details. Shoes were all different, all somehow inspired by previous collections —perhaps a comment on the AI recreations we’ve all become a bit too accustomed to. Despite the high standard the duo has set for themselves, the ability to constantly raise the bar is ever-mesmerizing to witness. 

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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MARNI SS25

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It's almost impossible not to adore Marni. Under Francesco Risso's leadership, the Italian brand has become the embodiment of polished whimsy. Even setting aside the obvious favouritism, it's undeniable that the brand has tapped into its place in the industry. Following last season's extravagantly surrealist approach, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection took a subtler direction— a word rarely associated with Marni. Through the playful elegance of his designs, Risso creates a collection that captures fleeting beauty. 

If in the last collection, the designer took on a paintbrush as the main source of inspiration, this season, all 54 looks took the place of a blank canvas — all made entirely out of cotton. In Risso's hands, the material transformed into a multitude of forms, contorting into origami-like shapes, or lacquered to mimic leather.

The collection opened with simpler looks. Tight trousers were paired with slightly oversized blazers in neutral shades. Whimsy appeared gradually. First, with a pop of colour in shades of light mint and yellowish beige. Then, unexpectedly, the hem of a tight-fitting pencil skirt exploded, while cropped jackets featured exaggerated shoulders. Shiny pussy-bow blouses paved the way for large-scale floral prints. Finally, (literal) eyebrow-raising silhouettes took over the runway, with comically oversized shoulders and mermaid-like skirts adorned with paper-feather boas.

Risso is intimately familiar with the concept of climax. After a steady build-up, the show ended with three gowns that, as Risso explained backstage, were meant to embody beauty itself. Not that we needed his words. The stunning fabric feathers, hiding crystallized floral appliqués in pannier-skirted dresses, said it all. As quickly as they appeared, the three gowns vanished — as the poem placed on each seat prophesied, beauty is but a white rabbit galloping through a dark forest.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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FENDI SS25

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For Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Kim Jones continues the celebration of the Roman brand’s 100th anniversary. Marking the first womenswear show of the centenary, the designer reflects on the emotional and historical depth of a legacy that spans a century.

The emotional resonance became evident as soon as the speakers came to life, projecting the voices of Silvia Venturini Fendi and Anna Fendi—Fendi’s artistic director of accessories and menswear and her mother—who spoke about the house’s history, not just as a brand but as a family. Jones often draws inspiration from this personal aspect of the brand. Silvia’s daughter, Delfina, is not only the brand’s jewellery designer but also Jones’ frequent muse. It’s no surprise, then, that this celebratory collection highlights the fact that at its core, Fendi is a family business.

That’s not, of course, all the brand is. Fendi has spanned a century of cultural revolutions. To convey the house’s broader significance, Jones drew inspiration from the decade in which Fendi began as a leather goods manufacturer. 1925 not only marked the peak of the Roaring Twenties but also the year of the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, which spawned the Art Deco movement. The artistic influence was evident as soon as the models started walking down the runway. Geometric patterned transparent dresses, one of which featured long fringes at the hemline were the first to appear on the runway. The nod to flapper-like flair wasn’t always as overt—short shift dresses were layered with transparent shirts embroidered with delicate, shiny flowers.

The collection’s inspiration extended beyond aesthetics; there was a clear historical dimension to Jones’ vision. Casual separates and sportswear were integrated with the historical references popularized in the 1920s. Despite a clear inspiration source, Jones’ collection didn’t read as a Great Gatsby (high-budget) recreation — there was a palpable modern whimsy. An upside-down slip dress dangled its spaghetti straps at the model's ankles while Red Wing work boots accompanied most looks. 

As expected in any Fendi celebration, the Baguette was omnipresent. Fringes, charms, furry bouquets: the ever-iconic bag appeared in every conceivable size, shape, and texture. Perhaps the emblematic accessory best encapsulates Fendi’s ability to navigate an unpredictable zeitgeist— always changing, always consistent.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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CELINE HOMME SS25

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For Celine Menswear Spring/Summer 2025, Hedi Slimane once again expands the Maison's imaginative lexicon. While last season transported us to the scorching American desert, this time, Slimane takes us back across the pond to the British countryside.

 True to form, the collection is accompanied by a film that situates it in its natural habitat. Among palaces and forests in Norfolk, England, Slimane unveils a collection focused on youth. Aptly named “The Bright Young,” the show parades tailored jackets and boating blazers, reminiscent of a secluded boarding school.

 Heraldic patches in polished silver advance the narrative by conjuring 20th-century military uniforms. Slimane doesn’t just transport us to a place—he takes us through time. Rooted in the 1920s, the collection is brimmed with references to the decade. From accessories—embodied by Richelieu shoes, monk straps, and tapered derbies—to cashmere flannels inspired by F. Scott Fitzgerald, the collection reinvents forgotten classics.

 The details are characteristically striking. Rowing jackets are elevated to couture under the hands of Celine’s ateliers. English field flowers are delicately hand-embroidered on waistcoats, while tailcoats feature silk faille gilets adorned with floral motifs composed of sequins, crystals, and pearls.

 It’s not just the technical craftsmanship that impresses; Slimane’s meticulous attention to detail is on full display. The geographic inspiration extends beyond the design into the materials themselves. Canvas tailoring is made from English cloth, rewoven by Celine to replicate 1920s summer cashmere and wool.

 To the sound of Les Indes Galantes, Slimane presents a collection that is both referential and refreshing, blending elegance with daring innovation.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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EGON LAB SS25

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Egon Lab has a knack for obscure themes. This season’s inspiration is the obscurity itself. Titled Notes from the Underground, for Spring/Summer 2025, the creative duo behind the brand find their starting point in the silenced voices of those living on the margins. The collection, presented through a campaign shot in London, deepens the darker narrative Egon Lab has dabbled in for the past few seasons. 

Tartan ran supreme - an underground collection shot in London would be sinful without it. From full skin-tight sheer ensembles to the brand’s classic structured suits, red, green, and blue checkered patterns blend right into the British landscape. Other (not so subtle) nods to the collection’s surroundings were made through bearskin caps that double as voluminous bags. 

Sportswear-inspired looks lightened a conceptually rich collection. With football ensembles and shirts made to resemble academic branded t-shirts, Egon Lab’s club has never been so easy to root for.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

CELINE HOMME FW24

Six years into his tenure at Celine, Hedi Slimane continues to expand the house’s aesthetic legacy. The secret to his unceasing success lies in his ability to use what he's best known for to wordlessly broaden the definition of what Celine means today. The brand’s Homme Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled Symphonie Fantastique is just that - an intricate orchestra of references, all masterfully conducted by Slimane.

Named after a symphony by Hector Berlioz from 1830, the composition is often considered an innovative precursor to psychedelic music. The creative director reminisces about the first time he heard it when he was just 11 years old, remembering his immediate infatuation with the piece. The track – which plays for the entire 14-minute movie presenting the menswear collection – remains one of Slimane’s personal favourites. Labelling Celine’s digital show as a film isn’t accidental; Slimane’s knack for the cinematic is on full display. In the Mojave Desert, a fleet of Celine helicopters descends from the sky, dropping off a similarly branded jukebox that catalyses the soundtrack inspiring the show’s name.

In black and white, a grievous procession of Cadillacs commences. Slowly, models start to walk on the asphalt runway. As in his previous womenswear collection, the 1960s inspiration is in full swing: slim leather jackets, collarless cropped blazers, slim pants, elegant boots - all capped by shaggy hairdos.

But the decade’s inspiration isn’t the only element carried over from Slimane’s previous show. The creative director expands his couture offerings with encrusted capes and glittering suits that shine brilliantly under the blazing desert sun. The designer’s more intricate pieces don’t feel self-indulgent; even when approaching the peak of luxury, he maintains a subdued coolness. Perhaps subdued isn’t the first word that comes to mind when watching the fully rhinestone gold coat walk down the empty road, but there’s a refreshing sobriety to Slimane’s extravagance.

Yet even among glittering capes and shiny suits, the collection’s most exciting feat is Slimane’s comeback to his design origins. Having built his name on sharp and slim tailoring, Celine’s Homme Fall/Winter 2024 collection marks a return to form. Slender silhouettes and pinstripe three-piece suits are a joyous reminder of the designer’s biggest strength.

The collection’s Western flair is unmistakable. Between aerial shots of the mountains and clips of Brayden Libero (a real-life cowboy) and his horse, Frijole, Slimane dips into the Western revival in pop culture. It isn’t just in the mood of the show; subtly flared pants and wide-brimmed hats find their natural habitat in the desert background.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

GUCCI CRUISE 24/25

In 1897, Guccio Gucci served as a bellboy at the Savoy Hotel. 127 years later, Kate Moss roams through the corridors of the British landmark in a slinky lingerie minidress and a giant coat as a prelude to Gucci’s cruise 2024/25 show. Despite the impact of the British capital on the brand’s heritage, the London Sabato de Sarno sees is far off from the Victorian city Gucci’s founder encountered.

Naturally, Gucci’s show took place in a London landmark that speaks to this new vision: the Tate Modern, or more specifically, the Blavatnik Building - De Sarno has an undeniable preference for brutalist settings. This time, however, the industrial edge is met with a natural softness, as the concrete walls magically grow vegetation.

Descending from the spiral staircase came the first looks. Neutral, wearable, and classic; denim was paired with caramel suede and pale yellow chiffon. The signature Ancora red wasn’t just present in the bannisters outside the museum, it was frequently seen as a pop of colour in neutral looks or monochromatic playsuits and full leather sets.

Despite the distance from De Sarno’s and Guccio Gucci’s London, there were some faint Victorian tinges, particularly in intricate white lace pieces ranging from skimpy sets to tight maxi dresses.

As it has become the custom of the new Gucci, simplicity is frequently cut with elaborate luxury. For the cruise collection, intricate embroideries and mind-bending embellishments were an elegant display of craft. An empire silhouette dress utilised the curious embellishing technique to distort colourful tartan into delicate fringe that blended light pink into a deep sage green as it descended the body. The square fringe embellishments, perhaps an allusion to the stereotypically British pattern, were again seen in oversized minidresses and light green sets.

Bags were both mini and maxi, the latter inflating the classic Jackie model into assertively practical proportions.  Completely transparent sets of short-sleeve shirts and long skirts revived the original purpose of a cruise collection - holiday wear.

The collection reached its end on a striking note, with pleated flowy dresses sensually grazing the green and grey maze as the models walked back up the imposing staircase. 

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CHANEL CRUISE 24/25

Last season, Virginie Viard brought the Atlantic seaside to Paris, but for Chanel’s cruise 2024/2025 collection, the designer juxtaposes Parisian sensibilities with the Mediterranean breeze. Presented in Marseille, the cultural mecca of the French Mediterranean coast, the show was a fun, lighter take on the Chanel identity, intertwining classic house codes with a sabbatical edge.

Over Viard’s reign at the helm of Chanel, the designer has deepened the brand’s connection to film, effortlessly blending cinematic narratives with the clothes she creates. For this cruise season, the film that preceded it was a dynamic portrayal of Marseille as a city of both deep history and effervescent creative culture. Dancers of the Ballet National de Marseille danced with Marion Barbeau in the city’s most identifiable landmarks. The preview for the movie (and the collection) ended atop the MAMO Centre d'art de la Cité radieuse de Marseille. The show picked up right where the short preview left off, on the roof of the iconic building.

The collection opened with a classic tweed Chanel suit in a bubbly shade of green, unorthodoxly paired with a thin grey hoodie. If taken as a casual styling decision at first, hoods proved to be a constant, at times used to lighten up classic silhouettes, and at others to fulfil practical necessities. Yes, a Chanel scuba mini-dress is a necessity.

Crochet was woven throughout the show, from grey miniskirt-and-cardigan sets to halter mini dresses, adding to the youthful feel. There were space-age inclinations, like a silver plaid mini and jacket set, monochromatically matched with a ribbed tank top. Multicoloured pebbled pockets mirrored the show’s location, drawing inspiration from the retro-futuristic energy that emanates from the museum. The collection culminated in 12 white looks that ranged from extremely casual to what could only be described as appropriate beach wedding attire. 

Under Viard’s guidance, Marseille becomes Chanel’s playground. From two films directed by Ladj Ly to a photo diary by Jamie Hawkesworth, with time for a broadcast appropriately named Radio Chanel, the brand doesn’t just use the city’s cultural atmosphere for inspiration, it actively contributes to it. 

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

EGONLAB FW24

For their ninth show, Egonlab presents a collection that cements the house codes while adding unexpected interest. Named "ONLY LOVERS LEFT ALIVE," the Fall/Winter 2024 offerings reinterpret the brand’s tailored punk aesthetic.

One thing can be expected from the Parisian brand: the silhouette is always a focal point. Oversized shoulders, defined waist, flared bottoms — Egonlab has a signature shape. This season was no different. The collection opened with a deliciously heavy jumpsuit that reflected the brand’s classic silhouette, followed by tightly tailored jackets that continued the same architectural narrative.

Despite its strong identity, Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, the creative duo behind the brand, infuse elements of interest into every collection. This time in the shape of interestingly draped coats and pants, shirts that clung from golden neck hoops and invisible shirts with oversized labels that read “100% human.” The last reveals the brand’s commitment to highlighting mental health awareness, having recently partnered with the organization PSYCOM.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos



TOD'S FW24

In the fast-paced world of fashion, Tod's once again bet it all on tradition and craftsmanship with its Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection. The palette is a sophisticated symphony of earthy tones and muted neutrals, reflecting the season's essence. The concept of quiet luxury has been seen all over our social media feeds for quite a while now and doesn’t seem to be going away. That’s precisely what Tod’s excels at. The accent is definitely placed on quality and wearability in this collection featuring simple, razor-sharp cuts in the highest-quality materials. Jackets and trousers are crafted from buttery-smooth leather and paired with sartorial essentials. The carefully selected hues and the focus on everyday “basics” showcase the brand's commitment to creating pieces that transcend fleeting trends.

Following the departure of ex-artistic director Walter Chiapponi to Blumarine, Tod’s is reaffirming the brand's status as a purveyor of timeless style. The brand circled back to its roots throughout this transitional phase and unveiled the PASHMY project: a search for the most exclusive and precious materials allied to the craftsmanship know-how of companies dedicated to maintaining Italian quality standards. Tod's continues to prove that there is an enduring beauty in embracing traditions. Don’t get me wrong, the brand’s staple style is modern and far from feeling nostalgic. The fashion is highly wearable and proves that instilling traditional crafts in a collection isn’t necessarily estranged from capturing the mood of the time – if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, after all.

Words by Marien Brandon

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