Celebrating the first collection of his decade-long tenure at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson presented (in)arguably one of the season's best propositions.

Anderson’s usual modus operandi, where an artist collaboration is used as a creative springboard for a complex narrative, was slightly tweaked for Spring/Summer 2025. As a birthday treat, the designer allowed us to peek into his seemingly endless well of inspiration. The venue was filled with the designer’s biggest influences, from Peter Hujar’s photography to Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s chairs. And, of course, the cheeky inclusion of Susan Sontag’s Against Interpretation didn’t go unnoticed.

As far as the collection goes, Anderson perfectly encapsulated his philosophy for the menswear line at Loewe: a heavy emphasis on craft complemented by surreal yet elegant sexuality. Cropped shirts and polos were intertwined with pants through a belt that looped around the hip, leaving a seemingly magical empty space at the waist, revealing the model’s body. Anderson works the body like a sculptor, showing an intellectual sensuality. Through his clothing, the human form is clay—he modulates it at will. Oversized pants are gathered to one side, creating exaggerated pleats on one leg only.

Further surreal explorations are made in a trouser and polo looks. The latter’s collar melted through the former’s waist, once again revealing the bare body underneath. Jaw-dropping vests are continued proof of Loewe’s savoir-faire. Appearing in multi-chrome, gold, and silver options, the carefully linked vests shone peculiarly under the filtered sunlight that filled the venue.

The collection reassures us of Jonathan Anderson’s status. With a gift for creating viral moments (which just in the past few weeks include a steamy “got milk?”-like campaign and a tomato clutch) and undeniable design ability, Anderson’s climax is evergreen.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOEWE SS25

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