Deciding to step away from the limelight while still at the top of your game is a sign of incredible self-assurance. With his last show before retiring, Dries Van Noten presented a Spring/Summer 2025 collection for his eponymous label that confidently looked back on his nearly 40-year-old career.

References to the brand’s history were ever-present. The silver leaf catwalk riffed on a similar set design from the Fall 2006 show. A line-up of Van Noten’s favourite models made an appearance during the farewell – from Alain Gossuin opening the show in an elongated double-breasted coat worn with furry sandals to Malgosia Bela and Karen Elson, both clad in boxy tailoring looks. All of the designer’s staples were weaved throughout the offering, showing the timeless appeal of Van Noten’s vocabulary. His signature mix of masculine and feminine, as well as clashes of colours and textures, manifested itself in looks that juxtaposed chiffon garments in salmon pink and baby blue with sharp suiting.

It wouldn’t be a Dries collection without the expression of his adoration for flowers in the shape of striking prints, this time in muted greys, pale greens and dusty pinks. The show closed with the designer’s other big love – metallics. Shimmering voluminous tops, shorts and jackets were paired with classic pieces in grey, black and khaki. The very last look revealed a peek of the glistening trousers under a long black coat reminiscent of the one showcased at the very beginning.

As he was taking his final bow to David Bowie’s Sound & Vision, Van Noten seemed to have a sense of calm fulfilment in his smile. Now he can focus on his other passion–gardening–knowing that he’s left his mark on fashion forever.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

DRIES VAN NOTEN SS25

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