DIOR WINTER 22 - BACKSTAGE
Backstage captured by Robin Joris Dullers
BALENCIAGA FALL22 - BACKSTAGE
ACNE STUDIOS
Photography by Jaime López Cano
COURRÈGES SS22 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Jaime López Cano
KOCHÉ SS 22 BACKSTAGE
SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE / INDIGO LEWIN
Rive Droite is launching FANZINE, a magazine but more concretely a platform through which thought provoking and up-and-coming creatives can express their work and talent.
The first FANZINE guest editor is the English artist and photographer Indigo Lewin, who has curated the first issue with an exclusive selection of images from her archive.
Born and raised in London, Indigo Lewin’s body of work is an honest depiction of the world she sees around her. Her curiosity and fascination with intimacy, the body, youth, and friendship, are what guide her work. What emanates from Indigo’s photographs are touching revelations of the incredible beauty behind shared moments between people. By using her intimate circle of friends as the subjects in her photographs, Indigo is able to explore this concept in a way that feels natural and authentic. She reminds us of the fragility behind these deeply personal and treasurable moments in life that are so fleeting.
In FANZINE’s first issue, Indigo’s images sit alongside her writing and personal notes. It’s a spontaneous invitation from the artist for us to connect with her, as if we were reading intimate entries from her private diary. Indigo offers us a rare glimpse into her world, full of tenderness and humanity.
An exhibition of Indigo’s work will be on display for a limited time in the Saint Laurent Rive Droite Paris and Los Angeles stores from September 16.
AN EYE FOR TALENT
For the third year in a row, KOMONO renews its partnership with the fashion department of the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. The brand worked with 5 talented Master students to create a pair of sunglasses linked to their graduate collection. We caught up with the students to discuss working with KOMONO and how the sunglasses added an informative, and stylish touch, to their own creative work.
What excited you about collaborating with KOMONO?
It was a very interesting experience to develop a saleable product for the first time. I learned that not everything is always possible in the making of a quality product. This opportunity gave me the chance to get a taste of working together with a company.
Can you tell us more about your design and how the whole process went?
My collection is about an artwork called ‘The Dinner Party’ by Judy Chicago. It's a gigantic dinner table made for strong women out of our whole history. Dressing-up has been a magical experience in my life for a very long time. During the process of my collection, I tried to push the boundaries of lace fabrics. I made collages with old and new laces, and vacuumed lace in plastic fabrics. It was therefore an obvious step to use it in my sunglasses, too. To summarize, my glasses are a translation of lace blindfolds.
In what ways do the glasses complement or enhance your collection?
I think the sunglasses give an extra dimension to the face and to my lace research. It's a finishing touch. I really enjoyed making different silhouette combinations by playing with accessories.
What excited you about collaborating with KOMONO?
Collaborating with KOMONO was the first opportunity for me as a young designer to translate something from my collection into a product for the public. That within itself is already quite exciting. In addition to this, working with KOMONO and other creatives was a great experience. The fact that they were also excited to translate my designs into reality and made sure that the sunglasses came to life just as I had imagined them made this experience special.
Can you tell us more about your design and how the whole process went?
The design for my glasses relates back to my topic dealing with the idea that self-expression is not related to accumulated wealth. The idea stemmed from an extravagant socialite named Luisa Casati who had squandered her wealth, forcing her to go through trash to find things to decorate herself with. This idea of luxury mixed with trash led to the design of the glasses. To execute this, we combined plastic bag textures with the elegant facings of ring, which led to the form and structure of the design.
In what way do the glasses complement and enhance your collection?
The sunglasses add a final touch to the collection. In my opinion, an accessory should not distract from a look, but accentuate it, and I think we were quite successful in this case. They also bridge the gap between conceptual design and something more wearable. The garments may not be for everyday use, but with the sunglasses you get to take a piece of the collection home with you.
What excited you about collaborating with KOMONO?
It was very motivating to be selected for the KOMONO collaboration so early on within the collection process. Furthermore, I learned how to work with a professional company and gained insight into their working process, from the design itself to the launch of the final product. Last but not least, it gave my collection a more professional outlook and I’m really excited that the glasses will be my first piece sold in-store.
Can you tell us more about your design and how the whole process went?
I chose a cat-eye frame and draped lycra fabric around it. The sharp frame had to be in strong contrast with the flowing fabric on top of it. The drape of the fabric does resemble flowing water. By translating the fabric drape into solid acetate the frame looks liquefied. To make a clear reference to the theme of water, I chose a transparent turquoise colorway, besides the two solid frames. The process went without any complications. The KOMONO designers helped me to translate my design ideas into a wearable and industrially produced piece.
In what ways do the glasses complement or enhance your collection?
The glasses, my shoes and bracelets all work with this idea of a liquid drape shape. These rather sculptural and experimental accessories stand out and complement my fitted silhouettes.
What excited you about collaborating with KOMONO?
First of all, I was really pleased with KOMONO’s craftsmanship. They realized the whole product as I imagined. Even some vague ideas were materialized through the team’s help. Also, the fact that the members of the KOMONO team were open to listen to us really helped me to share ideas during all the steps. This is the first opportunity that I’ve had to show my design to actual customers. I’m very excited!
Can you tell us more about your design and how the whole process went?
During last summer, I watched one movie named ‘The Color of Pomegranates’. This movie is about one poet’s life. As it has no dialogue, every scene and object have symbolism. I focused on some symbols about love. Love is a universal language and some verbal expressions of love exist in all cultures. So love-targets, arrows, radial shapes from the heart became main sources of inspiration for my collection. While researching, I came across one of Viviane Sassen’s series called ‘Umbra’, which means shadow in latin. I wanted to translate those color blocked shadows with archer’s and shooter’s goggles.
In what ways do the glasses complement or enhance your collection?
They give modern edge to the collection. At first, I thought some of my dresses wouldn’t fit with the glasses, but a sudden twist produced interesting outcomes. Especially during the photoshoot and show filming, the model’s movements and stage lighting enhanced my collection and sunglasses. I also liked the combination between the silver leather trench coat and the blue translucent glasses. This resulted in the photoshoot idea where I made use of shadows.
What excited you about collaborating with KOMONO?
I have known KOMONO for a long time within the Antwerp fashion scene, so I have been working on my designs with great enthusiasm. As a Master student, it is a privilege to collaborate with a brand that has been active for over 10 years. And on top of that, how nice is it that KOMONO and I both have our roots in Belgium?
Can you tell us more about your design and how the whole process went?
My collection is inspired by a love myth from the Middle East, which gave me the idea of combining two pairs of glasses into one. In addition, I have added influences from the 60s and 70s when love was an important theme. A part of the design for the glasses originated from a 60s pattern made by Barbara Brown.
In what ways do the glasses complement or enhance your collection?
My collection is a fusion of different elements. Hence both authentic cultural and contemporary influences can be recognized in my collection. The sunglasses reinforce that effect, as they fit perfectly into my design vision.
…
At KOMONO.com, the KOMONO Antwerp store and selected retailers.
Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi
SAINT LAURENT / PURIENNE
Saint Laurent Rive Droite / Purienne SLRD Editions
Anthony Vaccarello and photographer Henrik Purienne collaborate exclusively for Saint Laurent Rive Droite.
As part of the Saint Laurent Rive Droite editions, books produced and published for Rive Droite only, Anthony Vaccarello invited Purienne to express his vision through a series of black & white images featuring models wearing Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello collections.
The photos, captured in Paris, are faithful to Purienne’s erotic, playful and sensual aesthetic.
This is the fourth book of the Rive Droite editions, following the exclusive books on Daido Moriyama, Betty Catroux and Gray Sorrenti.
Saint Laurent Rive Droite editions also published their first fanzine with Derek Ridgers in February 2021.
The book is exclusively available at Saint Laurent Rive Droite Paris and Los Angeles stores and on YSL.COM/RIVEDROITE.
Inside CHANEL FW21 fittings
GIVENCHY FW21 LIVESTREAMING
KENZO SS 2021
KENZO SS 2021 campaign
by
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
For his second campaign for KENZO, Felipe Oliveira Baptista carried on the concept of distance photography – first developed for his Fall-Winter 2020 campaign with photographer Glen Luchford and stylist Jane How.
These are vintage photographs from Glen Luchford’s archives – recreated with the models shot under a similar light than the vintage ones, this time wearing the KENZO Spring-Summer 2021 Collection: Bee a Tiger.
The images take viewers on a photographic trip around the world – from Los Angeles, to Havana, to New York City and Marrakesh – evoking the spirit of ‘Going Places’, during a time when physical travel seems to be a distant reality.
The choice of pictures and styling was selected in order to express Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s vision for KENZO: A youthful nomadic spirit, freedom, diversity, optimism, and a certain idea of KENZO timeless style.
#YSL37 BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
SAINT LAURENT
WOMEN’S SPRING 21
MEN’S SPRING SUMMER 21
#YSL37 BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
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#YSL #SaintLaurent #YvesSaintLaurent @anthonyvaccarello @davidsimsofficial
SAINT LAURENT SS21
SAINT LAURENT DENIM #YSL35
HERMES WOMEN’S SS 2021
GABRIELLE CHANEL X FASHION MANIFESTO
CHANEL celebrates the opening of the exhibition
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the Palais Galliera
© Julien T. Hamon / Courtesy of the Palais Galliera
On September 30th 2020, CHANEL celebrated the opening of the exhibition Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto, which will run until March 14th 2021 at the Palais Galliera, the City of Paris Fashion Museum.
Throughout the day, the House ambassadors Vanessa Paradis, Anna Mouglalis, Angèle, Caroline de Maigret, Charlotte Cardin, Gaspard Ulliel and Sébastien Tellier visited the exhibition. The actresses Karidja Touré, Lyna Khoudri and Diane Rouxel, the writer Anne Berest, the singer Clara Luciani as well as the dancer and choreographer Blanca Li were also present.
On the occasion of its reopening after major extension work, which notably saw the creation of a new set of rooms baptised the "Galeries Gabrielle Chanel", the Palais Galliera presents the first Parisian retrospective devoted to the work of Gabrielle Chanel, the visionary designer, who imagined a new allure and revolutionised the world of fashion, accessories, perfumes, beauty and fine jewellery.
This exhibition organised by the Palais Galliera with the support of CHANEL highlights the birth and evolution of Gabrielle Chanel's style, the characteristics of her work, the emergence of her codes and her contribution to the history of fashion. Drawn from the Patrimoine de CHANEL, the Palais Galliera collections and various international museums, this ensemble of more than 350 pieces, dating from 1910 to 1971, throws new light on the lasting influence of the designer who transformed women’s style forever.
HELMUT LANG X ANTHONY VACCARELLO
HELMUT LANG X ANTHONY VACCARELLO
SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE
As part of the Saint Laurent Rive Droite project, Anthony Vaccarello has decided to give his creations to artist Helmut Lang to exert as raw materials for a set of unique sculptures.
In his quest for new partnerships and ideas to expand the identity of Saint Laurent, Anthony
Vaccarello has handpicked Helmut Lang, whose body of work in fashion reflect a strict construction that can be seen as an underground influence upon Anthony’s vision.
He has always admired and respected Helmut Lang, who made a name for himself from the late 80s and on by inventing a brand new design language that is still the ultimate embodiment of minimalism, modernity and restrained opulence.
Helmut has been part of Anthony Vaccarello’s inspiration as a designer but also as a person who always made the right choice. Also concerned with modern issues like sustainability, durability, lasting power of the ever-shifting nature of fashion collections and cycles, Anthony Vaccarello has found the perfect interlocutor for a project that is also a dialogue.
Helmut Lang questioned the very definition of luxury and the meaning of the clothes’ function.
He initiated with close artists, Louise Bourgeois and Jenny Holzer, which turned into a habit in the 21st century: a collaboration between an artist and a fashion designer. These close links put new interrogations at the forefront of the ever-evolving fashion industry: fashion a form of applied art, the time-frame of fashion creations, its more or less perennial impact on global culture are probably the only two who are still at the heart of today’s discussions.
With that background and creative philosophy, it seemed natural for the designer to turn to art full-time in 2005. His unique ability to turn items, either raw or discarded, into pieces of art, made him the perfect partner for this project.
Anthony Vaccarello invited him to work with past collections he made for Saint Laurent, thus contributing, in a selfless gesture, to the transmutation of his creations for the house into another form of art.
Clothing and accessory prototypes, garments and jewels left unfinished and deserted, remaining testimonies of Anthony Vaccarello’s creativity has been morphed into a new life.
Shredded, mixed with a pigmented resin then molded in aluminum, these former fashion objects will become primal totems with unique textures reminiscing both, a precious past and a promising future.
The sculptures will be displayed at Rive Droite, first in Paris, then in Los Angeles and will be available for sale.
SAINT LAURENT WINTER 20 #YSL34
SAINT LAURENT
WOMEN WINTER 20
#YSL34 BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
Featuring Laetitia Casta & Freja Beha Erichsen captured by Juergen Teller
NO MATTER HOW LONG THE NIGHT IS
SAINT LAURENT
MEN’S SPRING SUMMER 21 BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
Breathing, reaching the horizon, looking at the future, no matter how long the night is.
Over the skies and the architectures of Paris, New York, and Beijing, a constant attraction redefies gravity.
The video unveils Anthony Vaccarello’s collection, the inspirations, materials, forms, bright and dark colors, naturally blending different worlds.
The Saint Laurent Men’s Spring Summer 2021 Project curated by Anthony Vaccarello, is a unique virtual and physical experience, bringing together videos, augmented reality, 3D lenticular imagery, music playlist, street posters, hidden stickers, photo walls, flags, and more; all connecting the places from around the world, digitally to physically.
A perpetual and simultaneous game of echoes creates an impossible dialogue between imagination and reality. An unconscious desire.
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