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MODERN FREEDOM

For the CHANEL Cruise 2024/25 collection campaign, photographer Jamie Hawkesworth captured a series of portraits of model Loli-Bahia in and around Marseille, embodying the independence, ease, and modernity of the House and the collection. Loli-Bahia embodies the feeling of wind, sun, sea and sky as she surveys the coastline in classic black and white CHANEL lines, here reimagined into a scuba diving suit. Across the images, we see the codes of the House, reconfigured for the Mediterranean.

The sporty attitude is reflected in the season’s iconic tweed jackets, which appear throughout the campaign. The silhouette is reinterpreted with athletic details: with hoods made in sweatshirt, press studs and shell embroideries, their modernity mirrored by the angular geometries of the urban environment. An active feel runs through the rest of the collection, from cycling shorts rendered in fine leather to denim bermudas embellished with braid like a tracksuit. Flat shoes in black patent leather nod to both tuxedo shoes and scuba-wear.

There is a feeling, too, of escape: in the iconic 11.12 bag, which is rendered in luminous pastel tones, in a cotton poplin and lace top and skirt, and in the straw boater hats - a style favoured by Gabrielle Chanel - worn by Loli-Bahia with an insouciance and youthful allure.

These images capture a sense of spontaneity and effervescence. This is the spirit and attitude of the CHANEL woman today: active, energetic, and free.

The Cruise 2024/25 collection will be available in CHANEL boutiques in November.


ON BELONGING

In his first solo show Vandals, Winter Vandenbrink explores the idea of belonging, examining the relationship between the youth and their daily environments. Titled after a 1945 text by German philosopher Theodor W. Adorno, a work which has a leading influence on the Dutch photographer’s artistic practice, the exhibition delves into the impact that rising consumerism and mass culture have on individuality.

 Showcased at the Von Der Hoeden Contemporary gallery in Hamburg, the 13 unique works display a candid look into the youth subcultures of the modern European metropolises. The subjects, mostly unaware of being photographed, are captured during their daily hangouts in the urban landscape – linking up in the public spaces of their cities to chat, skate and perhaps cause a little bit of trouble.

 The raw photographs bring the role of fashion in shaping these communities to the forefront. Through wearing instantly recognisable garments from mega sports corporations like Adidas and Nike or brands like Calvin Klein, adolescents are able to effectively express their desire to belong to a specific group. Vandenbrink’s evocative images act as a vocabulary, introducing the viewers to the visual language that connects his subjects and inviting them to question the concept of authenticity in the contemporary world.


Vandals by Winter Vandenbrink is on view at Von Der Hoeden Contemporary in Hamburg from April 19 to May 23.


Words by Martin Onufrowicz

MIU MIU HOLIDAY

A sense of intimacy, elegance and charm. Cultivated dress codes redrawn for the here and now. An expression of beauty reconsidered for the many facets of life today. 

Starring actor Emma Corrin, Miu Miu Holiday occupies a home, a private space, open to infinite possibilities and interpretation.

 The mood is refined: an eased opulence and languor prevails in a filmic environment 

familiar to the person who inhabits it, who is cultured and confident - comfortable in their own skin. A contemporary and highly individual spirit embraces innovation just as it does savoir faire. 

 Incarnations of glamour and elegance past enrich and inform, always with the present and future in mind. 

 Miu Miu collaborated with Marshall to create a joint line of their iconic products and with Polaroid for cameras complete with branded web camera straps.


MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT SS24

Photography by Robin Joris

ZOMER SS24


Photography by Robin Joris

CELINE HOMME PORTRAIT OF AN ACTOR

LEVON HAWKE

photographed by Hedi Slimane, as part of the PORTRAIT OF AN ACTOR series.


NEW YORK - JUNE 2023

LGN SS24 BACKSTAGE


Photography by Cole Fawcett

LDSS SS24 BACKSTAGE

BLUEMARBLE SS24 BACKSTAGE


Photography by Cole Fawcett

BOTTER SS24 BACKSTAGE

EGON LAB SS24 BACKSTAGE

ESTER MANAS FW23 BACKSTAGE


Photography by Hanna Pallot

EGONLAB FW23 BACKSTAGE


Photography by Robin Joris Dullers

COURREGES SS23 BACKSTAGE

KOCHÉ SS 22 BACKSTAGE


Photography by Jaime López Cano

SIES MARJAN Men's SS20 BACKSTAGE


/ Photography by Merel Hart /

www.siesmarjan.com

// A SOFTER TOUCH AT LOUIS VUITTON //

Our world may be getting increasingly fast -and patience may have become the rarest virtue- Virgil Abloh wanted to slow things down at Louis Vuitton this season, and his last show for the House had a meditative and tranquil quality.

Attracted by the power of the flower -as a natural wonder and symbolic expression of change- Abloh focused on a vision of masculinity in motion, giving his silhouette a languid and fluid feel. Pleated, pressed-crease trousers were loose and voluminous, while a mauve shirt in nappa goat leather featured one single oversize pocket, which is all that you need to carry life’s essentials. That generosity also defined Abloh’s outerwear, which was on the roomy side again, and included lightweight parkas and hooded anoraks, as well as military-inspired styles and generous trench coats. Contrived effects are not relevant in menswear right now and the designer fully embraced this longing for ease.

This does not mean, however, that the collection didn’t feature experimental shapes or daring accessories, such as pleated monogram bags or flower-covered totes. Abloh seemed to be referring to the formative years defining the passage from boyhood to manhood, and how clothes play a crucial part within that period. He did offer intricate tailoring, but in vibrant and uninhibited shades -such as fuchsia pink for instance- and innovative technical jerseys, which added a sculptural quality to his suits. 

The idea of blossoming and transformation continued throughout the show and silhouettes became more dramatic, with added luggage and bags carried by the models themselves or hanging on abstract structures hovering around their bodies. Was Abloh evoking the baggage every man carries from puberty to adulthood, or was he referring to his own nomadic lifestyle? The presence of kites on some of these looks indicated that the Vuitton man was, without a doubt, ready for take-off.

/ Words by Philippe Pourhashemi /


// ACNE STUDIOS Men's SS20 BACKSTAGE //