Unveiled within Le Paysan, Le Valérie is more than a handbag — it is a heartfelt homage. Named after Simon Porte Jacquemus’s mother, it captures the tender spirit of a collection rooted in memory, rural heritage, and the sunlit poetry of the South of France. Borrowing the sculptural ring of the Bambola bag yet softening it with a feminine grace, Le Valérie stands as both timeless and intimate. Its structured silhouette recalls the classic city bag while preserving the naïve charm of a hand-folded pouch. Mature yet playful, it bridges nostalgia and modernity with quiet confidence. Alongside it, a series of leather charms pay tribute to Simon’s paysan roots — an ode to markets, fruit stalls, and the simple beauty of craftsmanship. Together, they weave a narrative of warmth and authenticity, echoing the collection’s celebration of family, memory, and love.
PRADA MODE LONDON 2025
During this year’s Frieze week in London, Prada Mode transformed King’s Cross’s newly restored Town Hall into something between a film set, an artwork, and a social experiment. For its thirteenth edition, the cultural club invited artists Elmgreen & Dragset to reimagine the act of watching itself. The result, The Audience, was less an installation than an immersive study in attention — a cinema sculpted from observation, repetition, and the subtle drama of spectatorship.
Inside, a looped, intentionally hazy film flickered across the screen. The room pulsed with presence: five hyper-realistic figures sat among the audience, locked in perpetual observation, their stillness uncanny against the living crowd. Nearby, The Conversation, a solitary woman Face Timing a film character, extended this interplay between the seen and the unseen, collapsing the divide between screen and reality.
Over its first two days, Prada Mode London staged talks and performances that echoed its central theme: how we look, how we gather, and how meaning emerges in the act of witnessing. Highlights included Kirsty Sedgman’s playful “Sit Down and Be Quiet” lecture on audience behaviour, Shona Heath and James Price’s deep-dive into cinematic set design, and a dialogue between Elizabeth Diller and Elmgreen & Dragset on architecture, institutions, and the public gaze.
Open to the public this weekend (October 17—19), The Audience proves that spectatorship can be as performative as art itself — a mirror in which we find not just what we see, but how we choose to see it.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
BUTT 37 NO COMPROMISE
BUTT's latest 120-page edition features bold storytelling from prominent LGBTQ+ voices, including Édouard Louis photographed by Nan Goldin, Bruce LaBruce with Omar Apollo, and Brazilian congresswoman Erika Hilton. Fashion legends Martin Margiela and Jean Paul Gaultier provide provocative insights, while the cover showcases free-spirited Jóhannan captured by Daniel Riera in southern Spain.
Since its 2022 revival with Bottega Veneta's support, BUTT has become essential reading for contemporary queer discourse. The magazine balances international stars like Troye Sivan and Arca with grassroots activists and marginalized voices. From Ignasi Monreal's provocative artwork to a Bogotá sauna/museum feature, this issue delivers refreshingly honest perspectives on modern queer culture.
Available worldwide and online at @buttmagazine.
A STUDY IN STILLNESS
In LOEWE’s FW25 precollection, character takes centre stage once again.
Captured by Gray Sorrenti, the campaign blurs lines between reality and roleplay — a cinematic ensemble featuring Yang Mi, Greta Lee, Josh O’Connor and Stéphane Bak inhabits modernist interiors where reflection, light and form distort expectation.
There’s a quiet tension: bodies lounge, observe, withdraw. Are they rehearsing, dreaming, remembering? Draped in twisted tailoring, fluid leathers and florals, each silhouette plays with scale and proportion — the kind of visual play that defines LOEWE.
Bags become totems in the scene: the Puzzle, the Madrid, the Roll-top. Softness meets structure. Mystery lingers. The wardrobe thinks before it speaks.
MODERN FREEDOM
For the CHANEL Cruise 2024/25 collection campaign, photographer Jamie Hawkesworth captured a series of portraits of model Loli-Bahia in and around Marseille, embodying the independence, ease, and modernity of the House and the collection. Loli-Bahia embodies the feeling of wind, sun, sea and sky as she surveys the coastline in classic black and white CHANEL lines, here reimagined into a scuba diving suit. Across the images, we see the codes of the House, reconfigured for the Mediterranean.
The sporty attitude is reflected in the season’s iconic tweed jackets, which appear throughout the campaign. The silhouette is reinterpreted with athletic details: with hoods made in sweatshirt, press studs and shell embroideries, their modernity mirrored by the angular geometries of the urban environment. An active feel runs through the rest of the collection, from cycling shorts rendered in fine leather to denim bermudas embellished with braid like a tracksuit. Flat shoes in black patent leather nod to both tuxedo shoes and scuba-wear.
There is a feeling, too, of escape: in the iconic 11.12 bag, which is rendered in luminous pastel tones, in a cotton poplin and lace top and skirt, and in the straw boater hats - a style favoured by Gabrielle Chanel - worn by Loli-Bahia with an insouciance and youthful allure.
These images capture a sense of spontaneity and effervescence. This is the spirit and attitude of the CHANEL woman today: active, energetic, and free.
The Cruise 2024/25 collection will be available in CHANEL boutiques in November.
ON BELONGING
In his first solo show Vandals, Winter Vandenbrink explores the idea of belonging, examining the relationship between the youth and their daily environments. Titled after a 1945 text by German philosopher Theodor W. Adorno, a work which has a leading influence on the Dutch photographer’s artistic practice, the exhibition delves into the impact that rising consumerism and mass culture have on individuality.
Showcased at the Von Der Hoeden Contemporary gallery in Hamburg, the 13 unique works display a candid look into the youth subcultures of the modern European metropolises. The subjects, mostly unaware of being photographed, are captured during their daily hangouts in the urban landscape – linking up in the public spaces of their cities to chat, skate and perhaps cause a little bit of trouble.
The raw photographs bring the role of fashion in shaping these communities to the forefront. Through wearing instantly recognisable garments from mega sports corporations like Adidas and Nike or brands like Calvin Klein, adolescents are able to effectively express their desire to belong to a specific group. Vandenbrink’s evocative images act as a vocabulary, introducing the viewers to the visual language that connects his subjects and inviting them to question the concept of authenticity in the contemporary world.
Vandals by Winter Vandenbrink is on view at Von Der Hoeden Contemporary in Hamburg from April 19 to May 23.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU HOLIDAY
A sense of intimacy, elegance and charm. Cultivated dress codes redrawn for the here and now. An expression of beauty reconsidered for the many facets of life today.
Starring actor Emma Corrin, Miu Miu Holiday occupies a home, a private space, open to infinite possibilities and interpretation.
The mood is refined: an eased opulence and languor prevails in a filmic environment
familiar to the person who inhabits it, who is cultured and confident - comfortable in their own skin. A contemporary and highly individual spirit embraces innovation just as it does savoir faire.
Incarnations of glamour and elegance past enrich and inform, always with the present and future in mind.
Miu Miu collaborated with Marshall to create a joint line of their iconic products and with Polaroid for cameras complete with branded web camera straps.
MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT SS24
Photography by Robin Joris
ZOMER SS24
Photography by Robin Joris
SAINT LAURENT FALL 23
CELINE HOMME PORTRAIT OF AN ACTOR
LEVON HAWKE
photographed by Hedi Slimane, as part of the PORTRAIT OF AN ACTOR series.
NEW YORK - JUNE 2023
LGN SS24 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Cole Fawcett
LDSS SS24 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Robin Joris Dullers
BLUEMARBLE SS24 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Cole Fawcett
BOTTER SS24 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Hanna Pallot
EGON LAB SS24 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Cole Fawcett
ESTER MANAS FW23 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Hanna Pallot
EGONLAB FW23 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Robin Joris Dullers
COURREGES SS23 BACKSTAGE
Photography by Oriane Verstraeten
