// BACKSTAGE / ANTHONY VACCARELLO FW16 //

/ Paris / 1st March 2016 / Maison de la Radio /

Our exclusive inside at the Anthony Vaccarello FW16 backstage. 

 

 

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/ photo by MEREL HART /

// DEEPER&DEEPER //

 

 

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/ production & photo by MICHAEL MARSON /

/ featuring SENNA from Dominique Models /

/ make-up & hair by Romain Sabau @ Touch /

/ All clothes by SAINT LAURENT /

 

// OVERSIZED //

Pull over by Raf Simons / Sterling Ruby

Jacket by Martin Margiela archives, oversized laser cut tee by Raf Simons archives, fisherman denim pants by Loewe

 

Left/ pull over by Raf Simons / Sterling Ruby, oversized tee by Prada & fisherman denim pants by Loewe

Rightcotton shirt by Raf Simons / Sterling Ruby, oversized cotton tshirt by Prada

Oversized bomber by Raf Simons archives, tee by Prada & fisherman denim pants by Loewe, leather shoes vintage

Oversized bomber jacket by Martin Margiela archives, oversized laser cut tee by Raf Simons archives & fisherman denim pants by Loewe

Oversized nylon bomber by Raf Simons archives & oversized tee by Prada

Superposition of 2 oversized cotton shirts by Prada & fisherman denim pants by  Loewe

Oversized plastic jacket by Prada, oversized tee by Prada & fisherman denim pants by Loewe

...

 

/ photo by NAGIB CHTAÏB /

/ production & style by BENOIT BETHUME /

/ hair by Perrine Rougemont @ Caren Agency London /

/ make up by Isabelle Bertrand @ Caren Agency London /

/ feat. DIMITRI @ Hakim Model Management /

 

// NEW DAWN FADES //

 

/ photo by KOEN VERNIMMEN /

/ styling by STOFFIE /

/ feat. LUKAS from Rebel Management /

/ Clothes by /

/ Raf Simons, Uniqlo x Lemaire, COS, Céderique Jacqmain, Jean Paul Knott, Filippa K, Espèces /

// NEO-CLASSIQUE //

 

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/ photo & styling by BENOIT BETHUME /

/ feat. Laurent, Anton, Jasper, Gael, Seppe and Toon from Dominique Models /

/ Make-up by Isabelle Bertrand & Hair by Brittany Mroczek /

/ All clothes from PRADA - stylist's archives /

/ special thanks to Koen Tambuyser & Nagib Chtaib /

 

 

 

// ALL ABOUT ANTHONY //

ANTHONY VACCARELLO /BY/ BEHIND THE BLINDS 

 

 

EXCLUSIVE ITW with ANTHONY VACCARELLO

BY

 Anja Rubik, Caroline De Maigret, Julien Gallico, Luca Gadjus, Saif Mahdhi, Laetitia Crahay, David Alexander Flinn, Zahoua Raji, Saskia Lawaks, Emmanuel Tomasini, Barbara Martelo & Alastair McKimm.

&

FASHION STORY

Anja  : Who would you rather dress : Sharon Stone or Brigitte Bardot ?

A : Sharon, always...

ZahouaWhat is THE recollection of our adolescence that inspires you in your work ?

A : When I customised your Quick T-shirt when we were 17, and you got yourself fired because of it.

LucaHow is your creative process or work ethic ? Structured, scheduled, stoic-like e.g. Thomas Mann, or rather unpredictable and characterised by phases of creative highs and lows ?

A : Every day , every hour , every minute I'm thinking of shoes, details, attitude, … It's quite awful sometimes, because it can overtake me while I’m having a completely different conversation with someone. But I can't help it.

What follows is never scheduled. I have a problem with that. Once I’ve thought all about a moment, the realisation of the concept is quite evident and fast. But it never turns out like I thought… Which is frustrating, but it helps to move on to the next one, and to always question things.

 Caroline : Anthony, how do you define feminism, and do you consider yourself to be feminist ?

A : To me, being feminist today is to be free. To live for yourself and not for others. I believe to have done so since the beginning; the woman I dress is self-assured. Or at least I hope she is…

 Julien : Who would be THE person to have reborn ?

A : Nobody. Once it’s over, it’s time to pass on to other things.

Saif : Who is the inspiration for the final dress worn by Anja during the S/S 2013 défilé ?

A : That’s you of course … #discomarrakesh... ;-)

  Luca : What is your biggest fear, your worst nightmare ? Do you have any phobia ?

A : I’ve been a claustrophobic since I got stuck in an elevator in Casablanca five years ago. And I’m more and more afraid of taking a plane … I guess the more I take it, the more I risk having a crash … it’s just statistics. The older I grow, the more I’m scared of death.

  Luca : Your collections are more than visual delights. How would you recognise someone wearing an Anthony Vaccarello piece in a darkroom ?

A : By touching her …

Barbara : How come your clothes are so sexy ?

A : That's a question you have to answer.

 Laetitia : What is the best way for you to recover after the end of new collection ?

A : To spend time with friends and my family.

DAF : Where did you find Anthony ?

A : I found myself quite early I guess. At school in ’99, sketching on a wooden bench. It was there without knowing it could ever be a real job or business. It was just the desire to dress or undress a woman, which became reality in 2006. 

Barbara : Sooner or later you will be offered to be the Creative Director of a Major Brand … Would you put your own brand on hold to pursue that project, or would you try to keep both, even with fashion’s demanding calendar today ?

A : Everything is possible, depending on how things come to be, and which house is asking. But only one can ask me to so. I believe it’s impossible to do two brands with the same enthusiasm and energy. It would drive me crazy knowing that one would always be less good than the other.

I don’t think it’s about moving energy towards something else. I could also stop fashion altogether and put my creative energy in another field than fashion. I don’t want to see fashion as a goal itself.

Emmanuel : When will boys finally have the opportunity to dress in AV ? I for one would really love to…

A : There are quite a few pieces for men in the collections… It’s merely a question of looking… You already have Amber Valetta’s bomber jacket ;-)

 Saskia : What is the positive thought to makes you bounce back up when you are at the end of your strength ?

A : I rarely am at the end. And when I am, I fall… and think of nothing else. It’s quite rare.

AnjaWould you rather be Gianni Versace or do Gianni Versace ?

A : Being myself, having grown up with all Gianni Versace did in the 90´s.

 Alastair : What is today's obsession ?

A : Change.

 

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/ production & photography by MICHAEL MARSON /

/ Illustration by CEDRIK TOSELLI by a portrait by Robbie Fimmano /

/ feat.  JONAS, LOUIS & VINNIE from Rebel Management, TYAS & KLAUDIA from Jill Models, CAROLINE DAVIS from IMM /

/ make-up & hair by Romain Sabau @ Touch Dominique /

/ All clothes from Anthony Vaccarello's collection / archives /

www.anthonyvaccarello.com

 

// IN THE SHADOW OF A DOUBT //

xx1ldcadre.jpg

 

 

/ production & photo by MICHAEL MARSON /

/ featuring Helena Coppejans /

/ clothes by Benjamin Monein /

// 2BOYS //

tank by CAN PEP REY / pants by LACOSTE 

coat by PAUL SMITH / underwear by ZIMMERLI 

coat by JEAN PAUL KNOTT / pants by LACOSTE / tank by CAN PEP REY

tee by CAN PEP REY / pants by Y/PROJECT

sweatshirt & pants by LACOSTE / shoes by NIKE 

coat by JEAN PAUL KNOTT 

tee by CAN PEP REY / pants by Y/PROJECT 

pants by Y/PROJECT 

tank by CAN PEP REY

tee by LACOSTE / pants by AMERICAN VINTAGE 

tank by CAN PEP REY  / jeans by & OTHER STORIES / shoes by NIKE 

coat by LACOSTE / sweatshirt by ADIDAS

sweatshirt by AMERICAN VINTAGE 

jumper by LOUIS VUITTON / pants by LACOSTE 

jacket by Y/PROJECT / underwear by ZIMMERLI 

coat by PAUL SMITH / underwear by ZIMMERLI

jumpers by HOWLIN & DIESEL 

 

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/ production by MICHAEL MARSON /

/ photo by NAGIB CHTAIB assisted by Xavier Bourgeois /

/ assistant styling Julien Brennecke /

/  RENO & KALLE from Rebel Management /

// BEYOND THE NIGHT //

coat by N°21

jumpsuit by HERMES / vintage tee 

skirt by VERSUS VERSACE / pants by DIESEL BLACK GOLD

top by ANTHONY VACCARELLO

hoodie by VERSUS VERSACE  

sweater by BALMAIN / skirt by VERSUS VERSACE

coat by JEAN PAUL KNOTT

jacket by TOMMY HILFIGER

sweater by 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

shirt by GIVENCHY

dress coat by VERSUS VERSACE

pants by LOUIS VUITTON

shirt by MARC JACOBS

shirt by VERSUS VERSACE

jumpsuit by HERMES vintage tee 

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/ production & photo by MICHAEL MARSON /

/ feat. TYAS from Jill Models & THOMAS by Rebel Management /

/ make-up & hair by KIM THEYLAERT for Bumble and bumble and Guerlain /

/ Thanks to Smets Premium Store /

// 2-4 PM //

 

 

 

                                                                                                                

 

1/shirt by DENHAM/ jeans by GANT - vintage jacket by LEVIS

2/vintage jacket by LEVIS - shirt by DENHAM - jeans by A.P.C.

3/vintage jacket by LEVIS - shirt by DENHAM -jeans by LACOSTE - jeans by A.P.C.

4/jacket by DENHAM - jeans vintage oversized jeans - jeans by LEVIS527

5/jeans by A.P.C.

 

/ production by MICHAEL MARSON & photo by BENJAMIN MONEIN /

/staring PIETER ROZIERS from Ulla Models /

// WARM LEATHERETTE //

pants by JEAN-PAUL KNOTT

necklace by ANTHONY VACCARELLO

suit by PAUL SMITH

pants by JEAN PAUL KNOTT 

all by LOUIS VUITTON

suit by HACKETT LONDON /accessory by RAF SIMONS vintage

tee by PLAY COMME DES GARCONS / leather belt by XAVIER DELCOUR vintage

top & pants by ANN DEMEULEMEESTER  

jacket by DRIES VAN NOTEN 

all by GUCCI by TOM FORD vintage 

tee & pants by JEAN PAUL KNOTT 

coat by MARNI & bag by & OTHER STORIES

shirt by GIVENCHY

jacket by HARRIS WHARF

all by DRIES VAN NOTEN 

top & pants by ANN DEMEULEMEESTER  

shirt by GIVENCHY

Warm leatherette
Melts on your burning flesh
You can see your reflection
In the luminescent dash

Warm leatherette

A tear of petrol
Is in your eye
The hand brake
Penetrates your thigh
Quick - Let's make love
Before you die

On warm leatherette

...

 

/ production & photo by MICHAEL MARSON /

/ feat. TYAS from Jill Models /

/ "Warm Leatherette" Lyrics by Daniel Miller /

Thanks to Stijl  &  Smets Premium Store

 

// Dark Beauties / ANN DEMEULEMEESTER SS16 //

Sebastien Meunier's dark beauties from his last Ann Demeulemeester SS16 collection.

www.anndemeulemeester.be

/ photo by MICHAEL MARSON /