For a certain type of person, there’s nothing as euphoric as a Saint Laurent show—the same person who has the Juergen Teller portrait of Yves Saint Laurent saved on their phone. For this kind of person (this writer), an Anthony Vaccarello show is the most anticipated of the season, every season. That is because Anthony Vaccarello doesn’t design selfishly, instead, he understands himself in a wider legacy. In his collections, creative intuition is thought through the lens of a pair of acetate glasses. Fall/Winter 2025 is no different.

First, the obvious: the boots. A pair of black leather thigh-high wader boots encapsulated the majority of the collection’s concept. For the first few looks, these were paired with sharp tailoring, the accessory adding an edge to an otherwise classic range. The footwear—beyond being the most interesting styling option of the season by far—was a welcomed reference. Robert Mapplethorpe is often used for inspiration, but Vaccarello doesn’t simplify his legacy to make it instantly recognizable – he considers it calmly. The boots are not only an allusion to the photographer’s S&M explorations, but to the artist himself. Mapplethorpe was often seen and pictured in full leather gear. Referencing a creator alongside their creations isn’t new to Vaccarello. Fall/Winter 2024 saw the iconography of Yves Saint Laurent’s personal style analysed. The latest collection carries over, not only an extension of this approach, but also some of its most successful moments. Suits and long coats remain razor-sharp even when contrasted by the shiny boots—perhaps looking even more cutting. By bridging these two references, Vaccarello hosts a conversation between two of the most culturally impactful queer men of the 20th century.

But even though the Savile Row-meets-The Eagle energy was omnipresent, Vaccarello went deeper than mere dialogue. As we’ve seen peppered throughout the season he’s unofficially closing, there’s been an instinct to reference the current shift in the cultural and political currents. Vaccarello doesn’t ponder what he doesn’t understand; instead, he hones in on what he does—and how that is affected when stormy weather approaches. After all, despite the state of the world, we still all put on (in this case, leather) pants one leg at a time. How is clothing used to feign the everyday when the everyday is something we no longer recognise? Here again, the instinct isn’t to create a parable but to look for guidance in the founder of the maison he leads. What fashion was Saint Laurent making when he was at his lowest? By researching the collections, Vaccarello positions plumes as an answer. In the last quadrant of the collection – when the tailoring mellows and oversized leather bombers nod to an ’80s source – plumes begin to appear. First, as a shroud atop a long coat, then flickering at the collar of others, until eventually they take over, enveloping pieces in a voluminous grandeur that serves as the closing piece to the show. As the last look walks by, and the euphoria finally begins to settle, it becomes clear: Vaccarello isn’t just preserving Saint Laurent’s narrative, he’s making it necessary all over again.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

SAINT LAURENT FW25

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