Love was in the air for Fall/Winter 2025. No, not in its traditional cupid-running-around sense, but in its platonic iteration. All over town, designers seemed trigger-happy when it came to collaborating. Fresh off his partnership with Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton, Nigo revealed Kenzo’s latest collection with another longtime creative partner, Futura. The Japanese designer teamed up with the American graffiti titan for a colourful and joyous collection. There was no mistaking the pieces the duo worked on: the Kenzo flower appeared paint-sprayed in Futura’s signature style, the atom logo was scribbled on workwear-inspired sets, and there were reimagined interpretations of Kenzo’s iconic flower throughout.

Nigo’s continued exploration of traditional Japanese wear was evident in kimono-like silhouettes and fully patterned satin sets layered over white shirts. The designer’s tenure at Kenzo has been dedicated to exploring the love affair between Paris and Tokyo, represented here through Mount Fuji prints and pachinko-parlour-machine-inspired knitwear. While the tension between these two cities has become something of an expectation at Kenzo, Fall/Winter 2025 introduced New York into the mix—an obvious nod to Futura’s presence. Beyond the graffiti-inspired pieces, campy accessories in the shape of bouquet wraps, beer bottle holders, and shopping bags were featured, all inspired by what Nigo observed people carrying around the city in the ’90s.

In a week defined by reflections on the state of the world, Kenzo felt refreshing, alluding to a past that few can relate to but many long for. Pops of colour in lapels and gloves felt heartwarming—just what we needed in the rain.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

KENZO FW25

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