Last season, Virginie Viard brought the Atlantic seaside to Paris, but for Chanel’s cruise 2024/2025 collection, the designer juxtaposes Parisian sensibilities with the Mediterranean breeze. Presented in Marseille, the cultural mecca of the French Mediterranean coast, the show was a fun, lighter take on the Chanel identity, intertwining classic house codes with a sabbatical edge.
Over Viard’s reign at the helm of Chanel, the designer has deepened the brand’s connection to film, effortlessly blending cinematic narratives with the clothes she creates. For this cruise season, the film that preceded it was a dynamic portrayal of Marseille as a city of both deep history and effervescent creative culture. Dancers of the Ballet National de Marseille danced with Marion Barbeau in the city’s most identifiable landmarks. The preview for the movie (and the collection) ended atop the MAMO Centre d'art de la Cité radieuse de Marseille. The show picked up right where the short preview left off, on the roof of the iconic building.
The collection opened with a classic tweed Chanel suit in a bubbly shade of green, unorthodoxly paired with a thin grey hoodie. If taken as a casual styling decision at first, hoods proved to be a constant, at times used to lighten up classic silhouettes, and at others to fulfil practical necessities. Yes, a Chanel scuba mini-dress is a necessity.
Crochet was woven throughout the show, from grey miniskirt-and-cardigan sets to halter mini dresses, adding to the youthful feel. There were space-age inclinations, like a silver plaid mini and jacket set, monochromatically matched with a ribbed tank top. Multicoloured pebbled pockets mirrored the show’s location, drawing inspiration from the retro-futuristic energy that emanates from the museum. The collection culminated in 12 white looks that ranged from extremely casual to what could only be described as appropriate beach wedding attire.
Under Viard’s guidance, Marseille becomes Chanel’s playground. From two films directed by Ladj Ly to a photo diary by Jamie Hawkesworth, with time for a broadcast appropriately named Radio Chanel, the brand doesn’t just use the city’s cultural atmosphere for inspiration, it actively contributes to it.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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