There is a trend happening amongst designers this season: a return to youth, to simpler times. The collective reaction is natural. In a time when everything is becoming more and more complex, youth is idolised as the answer—the last safe point. Craig Green’s interpretation is slightly different. Here, it isn’t necessarily youth that is edified, but an induced return to its innocence. Inspired by The Beatles’ journey into psychedelics, Green projected a push towards something deliberately positive. The creative source was perhaps no more evident than in the glowing eyes that accompanied every look.
In what was his first collection in almost precisely a year—last time in his studio in London—Spring/Summer 2026 began as an elaboration of where he left off last time we saw him. Seemingly randomly panelled and buttoned shirts had an almost military feel. Slowly, flowers started blooming, as if to signal the beginning of the euphoric trip. They first appeared in intricately knit sweaters and eventually expanded into maximalist prints on shirts. Mouthwatering, fur-hooded, armless parkas followed. Our personal favourite of the show.
A sequence of Green’s previous hits came towards the middle of the show. His evergreen collaboration with Fred Perry explored a simpler, more innocent take on youth. Striped polos came with matching skirts, creating geometric shapes on the body. Ankle-length colourful parkas were extraordinary, and the floral belted looks that followed seemed like a much-anticipated sequel to the Spring 2025 belt corsets.
The collection closed with its most emblematic looks: ‘60s bedsheet-inspired, multilayered floral explosions. It felt like a climax. As models walked barefoot on the yellow sand, we felt a similar peak. Oh, how we missed Green’s trips!
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos