Simon Porte Jacquemus is all grown up. With the Le Paysan (translating to The Farmer) show for his eponymous label, the French designer delivered one of his most elegant offerings to date.
Staged at the L’Orangerie du Château de Versailles, the show took its inspiration from the farming culture of the South of France. Growing up surrounded by sprawling fields and farms, Jacquemus created a love letter to his childhood environment. Our favourite reference came in the form of headscarves tied in the back with a nonchalant knot. Traditionally used as a pragmatic way to protect from the scorching sun, the designer elevated the headpieces into a poetic and sophisticated nod to his upbringing. The headpieces matched billowy off-the-shoulder sun dresses, white pantsuits, and the very final look in the show – a beige gown with a dramatic train that was contrasted with the model’s bare feet.
The palette remained classically Jacquemus, with crisp white, lemon yellow, pale blue, black and cream leading the charge. Experimentations came in the form of the silhouettes – from full-bodied skirts to layered pleated dresses. Sharp cigarette trousers and see-through chiffon gowns were decorated with tassels dangling with each movement. The oversized lapels of jackets doubled as pockets, creating a cocoon shape.
As for menswear, the designer presented a line-up of incredibly desirable and attractive propositions. A deep navy tunic sat on top of a wide skirt in white and striped trousers. Blazers were cinched in the waist and paired with shorts past the knee and mules tied around the ankle with a ribbon. A black suit was juxtaposed with a bag resembling a wooden case with plants.
A love letter to his family’s background, the collection was an incredibly touching display right from the start when a boy (symbolising young Simon) opened the monumental door to begin the show. During the finale, once the models reached the bottom of the staircase, the designer ran down towards his family members in the audience, holding back the tears. In an industry that is way too often preoccupied with appearing mysteriously unmoved, the show was a welcome exhibit of raw emotion.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
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