In a space riddled with darkness, the most exciting 15 minutes of the entire fashion month are about to take place.It’s Sabato de Sarno’s debut as Gucci’s creative director, the moment the fashion world has been eagerly waiting for since November last year after Alessandro Michele’s departure.
The expectations are high. For decades, Gucci has materialized the deepest desires of the zeitgeist. From Tom Ford’s sexiness to Alessandro Michele’s maximalism, the brand’s eras are artifacts of what fashion meant at different times. The weight of the world sits on De Sarno’s shoulders. And yet, as the lights finally reveal the first model, the pressure seems to vanish. All everyone can think about are the clothes that suddenly appear.
The first looks are sleek but sexy, with a minimalist approach that begins to weave the story of De Sarno’s vision. Neutral blazers, patent leather minidresses and long coats open the collection. This is the new Gucci. A slick white mini dress comes out that, despite its simplicity, is reminiscent of the daintiness of chantilly.
But, if the collection began on a lighter note, we were soon reminded that, regardless of a new director, it’s a Gucci show we’re experiencing. Tops that are as tiny as they are sparkly appear, obviously accompanied by matching bags. The sparkles run through the collection, later embellishing colorful pinafore dresses. Finally came lingerie-inspired pieces that combined cherry red vinyl with black lace in a combination that can only be described as devilish.
The accessories were impeccable. Monumental horsebit loafers framed the collection, providing a different interpretation of one of the brand’s most recognizable pieces. Colorful bags paired impeccably with each look that walked down the runway, reminding us the true purpose of an accessory is to complement and crystalized stilettos swept the floor with long fringes.
Appropriately named “Ancora” (the Italian expression for again), the collection felt like a mindful consideration of what Gucci was and what it can be. Sleek. Chic. Cherry red. It's the dawn of De Sarno’s era.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
