“I want to make clothes people will wear.” Backstage at Kartik Research's show, it’s chaos. A considerably larger chaos than it was last season. It’s a bigger venue, with more press and more people to congratulate Kartik Kumra on his success. It’s not surprising, since the last time he showed, he has gone on to experience immense success. Not only is he dressing one of the most beloved political figures in the US in decades, NYC Mayor Zohran Mamdani, but his own message of change has grown more popular. His clothes are unapologetically inspired and made by Indian craftspeople.
Ironically, as his success in the Global North markets grows, so do international trade tensions. As the bridge between Indian craft and the Western customer, Kumra feels the strain firsthand. Inspired by it, Fall/Winter 2026 is a reflection of what Indian craft looks like when dedicated to the Indian market. With the cult brand Raag as his muse, the designer doubles down on workmanship. Beautifully cut pants are embellished deeply at the waistband. Blue beads cascade down an open shirt. Floral embellishments grow on a pink light jacket.
Even so, Kumra’s genius is in the way he adapts tradition into silhouettes that feel fresh, everyday. “Our clothes… it just goes with whoever wants to wear it,” he tells me backstage. It’s hard to disagree. His clothes are impeccably cut: blazers fit perfectly on the body, somehow both extremely light and structured. Womenswear is always a treat. A draped linen long-sleeve is easy, voluminous where it should be, while accenting the waist. A dress is delicately embellished, its embroidery featherweight, almost as lightweight as the gold fabric underneath it. Kumra is a wonderful designer, but an even better aesthetic mediator. “It’s a push and pull, but I don’t want us to lose that balance; it’s the most interesting part of what we do.”
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
