Our exclusive inside at the Thom Browne SS18 backstage.
/ Captured by LARA GASPAROTTO at both_productions /
// SHE WALKS IN BEAUTY //
"She walks in beauty" is the name of the last exhibition which takes place at the ModeMuseum, Antwerp. From the 12th october until the 18th march 2018, Olivier Theyskens, the fascinating Belgian designer, shows us his creative evolution of twenty years in the fashion business, his craftsmanship and the changing atmospheres of his work through a multitude of silhouettes imbued with couture spirit. "Olivier Theyskens – She Walks in Beauty" takes us on a journey accompanied by literary voices forming a counterpoint to the visual world, photographs, films and drawings of the artist's creative process.
Olivier Theyskens is known for the dark romantic side of his early designs, the new vision of couture he instilled at Rochas, his mastering of textiles and cut at Nina Ricci. His extraordinary talent for drawing and autodidactic work method give a great insight into the different aspects of the contemporary fashion industry: from couture to semi-couture and ready-to-wear. The Theyskens muse changes through time: she’s romantic, mysterious, strong and elegant, both young and old, but she walks in beauty wherever she goes.
...
...
/ by Laurenne Makubikua /
// ANN DEMEULEMEESTER / BACKSTAGE SS18 //
/ Photography by #HONIGSCHRECK /
/ Detlef Honigstein and Timmi Taubenschreck /
// HERMES / BACKSTAGE SS18 //
Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski designed pure forms of graphic playfulness for SS18 women’s ready-to-wear, a collection filled with freshness and accurate elegance.
...
/ Photography by Wai Lin Tsé /
/ Words by Xavier Bourgeois /
// HERMES SS18 / LIVE STREAMING //
// A.P.C. TRANSMISSION //
Jean Touitou publishes A.P.C. Transmission, a retrospective of the brand, personal scrapbook and visual diary with texts, invitations, postcards, campaigns, pictures of their stores and collaborations.
The A.P.C. founder describes this book as “an owner’s manual because that is what it is. You own this book now, here is how it works. First, I called the book Transmission for a very simple reason. I just want to pass information and feelings in a smooth way. As in the song ‘Pass the Dutchie’ if you will. I guess thisis going to be called the A.P.C. book, which is fine by me. Still, I’ll insist on calling it Transmission since, in today’s world, things disappear in some suffocating digital space. I thought that an actual book would be good for this search for a past that could be so easily lost if not transmitted in printed matter.”
The book is made of three parts: “Percept”, a series of collage from Jean Touitou’s life before A.P.C.; “Written material”, texts written by J.T. to help readers understand what A.P.C. is; and “Catalogue Raisonné”, a portfolio of almost everything that has been done by A.P.C..
The Transmission T-shirts is available alongside the book. There is a printed picture of Jean Touitou on it wearing a T from the American Garage band called “Kenny and the Kasuals” from 1977. Jean was selling their records at the time through his mail-order record shop “Road Runner”. A picture of merch, used as merch.
/ by Xavier Bourgeois /
// ARCA X RYUICHI SAKAMOTO //
The Venezuelan producer, songwriter and performer Arca has just shared a remix of “async” composed by the legendary Japanese artist Ryuichi Sakamoto.
This remix will be featured on a companion album related to “async” with other arrangements from Cornelius, Motion Graphics, Electric Youth, Jóhann Jóhannsson and Oneohtrix Point Never (out in fall).
/ by Xavier Bourgeois /
// DREAMS, TEARS & FEARS //
David Alexander Flinn’s new exhibition at FHF’s north gallery is a journey through Dreams, Tears and Fears. The installations are immediately eye-catching and bring out a deep systematism, detailed and careful engagement; the whole work tainted with humor, vibrancy and provocative audacity.
David describes his Dreams, Tears and Fears as
” an exploration of the spaces in our contemporary narrative of fiction and reality, the borders and the blurred lines between what is true and what is perceived. Who is who, what is what and why is it so? If a tree falls in the woods and no one is there to hear it, did it ever happen? What are our guidelines for a contemporary existence?
Dreams are a glance into our subconscious often forgotten or misinterpreted by our awakening. Within life's new parameters, is reality a dream? Where have our dreams gone? Are they our nightmares? Where do we live and how?
The only thing we are left with is our nature and our tears, whether joyful or sorrowful. What is left that is "real" is our emotional experience.
Sweet dreams”
87 Rivington st, NY .
07/09/17- 15/10/17
/ by Xavier Bourgeois /
// MONOCHROME //
First look at the new Camper’s shoe campaign by Romain Kremer with director Daniel Sannwald.
In new Romain Kremer’s techno journey, Rossy de Palma and five other “dreamlike characters” are evolving in a bright monochrome colour universe which immersed us in the ever-expanding Camper’s eccentric and surreal world.
// VINCENT G. X SAINT LAURENT //
First look at the new SAINT LAURENT by Anthony Vaccarello men SS18’s campaign staring the iconic Vincent Gallo under the lens of David Sims.
// CALVIN KLEIN SS18 / LIVE STREAMING //
// ÊTRE MODERNE //
This fall, Fondation Louis Vuitton is inviting the Museum of Modern Art in Paris to present an outstanding exhibition of more than 200 masterpieces and works of art from the New York museum.
This exhibition will highlight the fundamental impact of the museum, conservators and programs on the 20th and 21st art history.
The collaboration brings to the fore MoMA’s legendary artistic commitment to Paris and reflects the desire of both institutions to remain moderne forever.
“Être moderne: le MoMA à Paris” will take place at Fondation Louis Vuitton from October 11 to March 5.
// KOOL THING //
To celebrate the launch of their LA design atelier, & Other Stories teamed up with Sonic Youths former member Kim Gordon. The brand wished to work with Kim as they found themselves inspired by her creativity, style and artistic integrity.
Her ability to not conform is something that is very much encouraging for women all around the globe. She approached this collaboration in a very creative way and generated patterns based on colours and words, her favourite ones.
Her daughter Coco Gordon Moore is modelling the series of sweats and t-shirts she designed. She definitely inherited that one thing we all envy Kim for.
That kool thing, it’s a family thing.
/ by Gaelle Van Lede /
// ALCHEMIST. ARTISAN. DESIGNER //
Gemologist, artisan, dreamer, curious, insatiable…many words to portray Ado Chale, the craftsman in wrought iron. No round, no square, no rectangle, just a hand that digs and traces raw material and vigorous forms to show a window open on a dream journey to the heart of the earth.
To celebrate his first monograph (released on September 14th) Bozar is hosting a retrospective of his work from August 18 to September 24. These two events will retrace the odyssey of Ado Chale from 1966 to 2015.
/ Images Gilles van den Abeele /
/ by Xavier Bourgeois /
// HELMUT LANG 2.0 //
Helmut Lang shaped the 90’s and influenced more than any others today’s fashion with his monochromic and androgynous lines. After years of absence on the catwalk, the brand is coming back with confidence, intensity and sexiness.
Many special projects are to come: a re-edition volume 1, artist series and on September 11th ‘Hood By Air’ designer Shayne Oliver will present a special Helmut Lang collab.
This new era will make shine the brand’s heritage and will breathe new life into fashion.
/by Xavier Bourgeois /
// VISITOR //
Good news for all Léo fanatics out there, Belgium’s coolest new label according to Vogue.com, is now available online at Opening Ceremony.
OC just launched “Visitor” on their web shop. This collection is all about the Léo girl making her way from an underground subway party, to her early morning flight. And this first drop is just the beginning.
Because although the name of the collection suggests just a passage, we know this cool kid is here to stay.
photo by Sascha Heintze
/ by Gaelle Van Lede /
// NEW FACE //
First look at the FW17 MSGM campaign, captured by Alasdair McLellan and staring Lennon Gallagher.
// ERDEM STORY //
H&M revealed yesterday its new collab with Erdem. The Swedish brand and the London-based designer have developed a woman capsule collection but also a man one, a first shot for Erdem Moralıoğlu.
The collection will be very personal Erdem says: “The collection reinterprets some of the codes that have defined my work over the past decade. It’s also inspired by much of my youth, from the English films, ’90s TV shows and music videos I grew up watching to memories of the style that defined members of my family. Taking from these inspirations, I imagined a group of characters and friends off to the English countryside for the weekend. There’s a real play in the collection between something decidedly dressed-up and equally effortless.”
This new collab is a new chapter and will give people from all around the world the chance to experience their own ERDEM story. Now, we just have to wait till November to have it in our hands. Meanwhile, let's get delighted by the campaign shot by Baz Luhrmann.
/ by Xavier Bourgeois /
// 29° //
In a dramatic landscape striking by its deep and languid beauty,Brett Lloyd captured Lee Wood new collection for Dirk Bikkembergs Fall/Winter 18.
Wood shows a rigorous, masculine, smooth and contemporary look and succeed to revive the house’s original minimal aesthetic inspired by the brand’s founder Dirk Bikkembergs (one of the Antwerp Six).
/ by Xavier Bourgeois /
![MiuMiuTales&Tellers_#14_ (THE [END) OF HISTORY ILLUSION]_HOST.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/553417b2e4b03cb74b7dfb0f/f714434e-20b1-4f9e-bd9f-4726f54f8e22/MiuMiuTales%26Tellers_%2314_+%28THE+%5BEND%29+OF+HISTORY+ILLUSION%5D_HOST.jpg)
