Alexander McQueen is worshipped by the fashion crowd. There’s a sense of protection when it comes to his legacy. After all, his designs are part of the reason most began to think of fashion as an expansive art form. For over a decade after his death, Sarah Burton, his right-hand woman, took over and carried on his legacy respectfully. But now, for the first time since its inception, the house of McQueen has an outsider at its helm. The one tasked with this challenging role was Seán McGirr, an Irish designer who was previously at JW Anderson and Uniqlo.
For his debut, McGirr said he channelled the spirit of the earlier Alexander McQueen shows. Despite his admiration for the British designer’s impact, he admitted that he only had three months to create the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Because of time constraints, he was forced to resort to visual research instead of visiting the physical archives. Still, references to “The Birds” were made rather obviously in the opening look that encapsulated the model’s arms in the black laminated silk jersey.
The classic McQueen edge was reworked, modulated in a different, less serious manner. Hoof shoes galloped down the runway, and smashed crystal dresses were impressive, though we were expecting them — they were some of the only clothing shown in the campaign that preceded McGirr’s debut show.
The menswear offers were exceptional. From studded bomber jackets complemented with furry jeans to sharply tailored leather trench coats that exuded Jack the Ripper energy. The men’s offers specifically seemed to be rooted in British edge.
Despite the nods to the founder of the brand, there were almost none made to his successor. Instead, McGirr showed his idiosyncratic elements in his first audience-facing role. The designer’s time at JW Anderson peeked through in oversized knits that restricted the wearer, resembling tyres around the body. The Irish designer replaces McQueen’s aggressive design choices and soothes them, making them almost witty.
As with any designer who would step into the house of McQueen, McGirr’s debut sparked extensive discourse online. But the collection showed immense promise. Now gifted with more time for his next show, we can’t wait to see where the Irish designer takes us next time.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
