Six years into his tenure at Celine, Hedi Slimane continues to expand the house’s aesthetic legacy. The secret to his unceasing success lies in his ability to use what he's best known for to wordlessly broaden the definition of what Celine means today. The brand’s Homme Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled Symphonie Fantastique is just that - an intricate orchestra of references, all masterfully conducted by Slimane.

Named after a symphony by Hector Berlioz from 1830, the composition is often considered an innovative precursor to psychedelic music. The creative director reminisces about the first time he heard it when he was just 11 years old, remembering his immediate infatuation with the piece. The track – which plays for the entire 14-minute movie presenting the menswear collection – remains one of Slimane’s personal favourites. Labelling Celine’s digital show as a film isn’t accidental; Slimane’s knack for the cinematic is on full display. In the Mojave Desert, a fleet of Celine helicopters descends from the sky, dropping off a similarly branded jukebox that catalyses the soundtrack inspiring the show’s name.

In black and white, a grievous procession of Cadillacs commences. Slowly, models start to walk on the asphalt runway. As in his previous womenswear collection, the 1960s inspiration is in full swing: slim leather jackets, collarless cropped blazers, slim pants, elegant boots - all capped by shaggy hairdos.

But the decade’s inspiration isn’t the only element carried over from Slimane’s previous show. The creative director expands his couture offerings with encrusted capes and glittering suits that shine brilliantly under the blazing desert sun. The designer’s more intricate pieces don’t feel self-indulgent; even when approaching the peak of luxury, he maintains a subdued coolness. Perhaps subdued isn’t the first word that comes to mind when watching the fully rhinestone gold coat walk down the empty road, but there’s a refreshing sobriety to Slimane’s extravagance.

Yet even among glittering capes and shiny suits, the collection’s most exciting feat is Slimane’s comeback to his design origins. Having built his name on sharp and slim tailoring, Celine’s Homme Fall/Winter 2024 collection marks a return to form. Slender silhouettes and pinstripe three-piece suits are a joyous reminder of the designer’s biggest strength.

The collection’s Western flair is unmistakable. Between aerial shots of the mountains and clips of Brayden Libero (a real-life cowboy) and his horse, Frijole, Slimane dips into the Western revival in pop culture. It isn’t just in the mood of the show; subtly flared pants and wide-brimmed hats find their natural habitat in the desert background.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CELINE HOMME FW24

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