Hedi Slimane is a creative director through and through. His collections are not merely clothes; they are gateways into a world of his construction. For Spring/Summer 2025, Slimane transports us to the 1960s—a familiar era for him. While his Fall/Winter 2024 collection explored this decade as Celine's golden age, this season, Slimane takes a different route, delving into the youth culture of the time. Drawing inspiration from Françoise Sagan’s La Chamade and icons like Juliette Gréco, he presents a collection that doesn’t just create characters, it forges a narrative.

Despite unveiling the collection at the height of Paris Fashion Week, Slimane marches to the beat of his own drum—this time to the tune of The Velvet Underground and Nico’s Femme Fatale. Models gracefully paraded through the halls of the Château de Compiègne, a royal residence northeast of Paris, as the film, aptly titled Un Été Français, unfolded. As is customary, the film opens with a coveted Celine-branded item—in this case, a typewriter—that instantly feels essential.

Soon after, models dressed in checked and pleated school uniforms, hand-embroidered and woven from summer cashmere, strolled through the opulent palace. Baby doll silhouettes added a sweet yet nostalgic touch to the collection, whether in black-and-white plaid or fully embellished designs. A standout moment came with a vinyl plaid set featuring a round collar and shorter skirt—a transcendent piece. Equally impressive was the couture selection, which comprised 20 of the 49 looks, with carefully placed palettes and shimmering ornamental flowers adorning charming mini dresses.

Central to many of the looks was the latest addition to Celine’s iconic bag lineup: Joséphine. Reflecting the spirit of the collection, this bag features a curved, erect handle that instantly transports us to the Belle Époque of fashion—the very essence of Slimane’s vision this season.

From the meticulous stitching on each button to the historically accurate buckled Mary Janes, Slimane’s perfectionist tendencies were on full display. Beauty, too, played a pivotal role in his collection, with almost every model donning Gréco-inspired eyeliner and fringes. The attention to detail extended beyond the runway, as a signature perfume created specifically for this collection further amplified the atmosphere of the show.

The collection’s debut came just days before Slimane announced his departure, soon followed by the appointment of his successor, Michael Rider. After seven prosperous years, Slimane leaves Celine transformed. With the introduction of menswear, a beauty line, and a fully-fledged couture line, the Celine he departs is far different from the one he inherited. But all good things must come to an end. Slimane will undoubtedly find new avenues for his genius, and Celine, under Rider’s leadership, is poised for further growth. Having been a design director during Phoebe Philo’s time at the house—still regarded as a golden age—Rider’s appointment signals a new and exciting chapter. The king is dead, long live the king.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CELINE SS25

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