For the past few years, Kim Jones has been honing down on the Fendi woman. This season, he zoomed in on her perfectly. By tapping into the brand’s archives, primarily Karl Lagerfeld's designs in 1984, he projected a feminine blend of Italian elegance and British edge.

Much like the models that, on the runway, subtly appeared from behind curtains, the inspiration for the collection was revealed discreetly. Long coats with circular cuts created mandarin-like collars. Shorter jackets replicated the shape but replaced the geometrical fluidity of its cut with austere elegance, tactfully tucking at the waist to flare out immediately after.

Besides the nod to the Japanese style obsession of 1980s London, Jones emulated Leigh Bowery’s polka dots. Depleted of its campy edge, the pattern assumed an odd chicness.

Over and under the knee squared-toe boots punctuated the collection. The shoes, despite their usual association with jovial style, were transformed under Jones’ command. No longer youthful, the only adjectives to describe knee boots are now sexy and elegant. A must for any (grown) woman’s wardrobe, especially when layered under sheer skirts.

The show concluded with prints of Roman statues, encapsulating the New Romantic feel of the collection perfectly.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

FENDI FW24

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