Titled "Le Salon", Valentino’s Couture Spring 2024 collection was an ode to the art itself. Pierpaolo Piccioli was said to be inspired by the current resurgence of interest in the couture tradition. With this reference point set in his mind, the designer traded out last season’s grandiose Château de Chantilly for the intimate salons of Place Vendôme. In a venue that evoked the salons of ancient couture, Piccioli delivered a collection that emphasized craft over artifice.

Known for his monumental couture pieces, this season, the designer’s theatrics were mellowed out. Effervescent feathered headpieces were replaced by transparent lace masks. Titanic chandelier crystal earrings were swapped for golden ribbon-like ones. Monumental rose hats moved down the body to create textured capes.

One thing that didn’t change was, of course, Piccioli’s exquisite use of colour. This season, the flashy PP Pinks and Valentino Reds were taken over by demure eggplants, dusty oranges, and muted reds. A thick leather trench in the last shade was adorned with golden balls all over, creating a three-dimensional polka dot effect. The piece marked the beginning of the last section of the collection, where gold and black reigned.

The focus on craft continued in Piccioli’s tradition of highlighting the work of the Valentino atelier. By sharing his bow with his team, the designer continues to show his respect for the tradition of couture.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE SS24

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