In the wake of Sabato De Sarno’s recent departure, Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection answers an apparently simple yet disarmingly complex question: What does Gucci look like?
After so many creative evolutions, what is the legacy that remains as we all (not so) patiently wait for the next one? It’s not easy to find the common thread between Tom Ford’s sex and Alessandro Michele’s extravagance, or Guccio Gucci’s original flair and De Sarno’s bejeweled minimalism. Yet, the in-house design studio responsible for the collection successfully did it.
The runway, a striking interlocking 'G' motif, set the stage for a blend of eras. Models adorned in boxy mini-dresses, reminiscent of the mod sixties, paraded alongside ensembles featuring luxurious faux fur coats and satin slip dresses that echoed the dirty sensuality of the nineties. Of course, it wasn’t just a revisiting of the archives—there was depth to what was presented. A clear sign of this was the reimagination of the iconic horse-bit hardware, appearing as drop-chain neckties and enclosures on leather bags.
The amalgamation of men’s and women’s silhouettes wasn’t just a practical tactic but an interesting creative opportunity. The Gucci wardrobe was displayed without interruption. Even if the menswear was admittedly slicker and the womenswear quirkier (fur coats combined with lavender lingerie were undeniably camp), the collection read as a whole.
As the house stands at a crossroads and anticipation surrounding the appointment of a new creative director grows, Fall/Winter 2025 was reassuring. No matter what, Gucci will always be Gucci.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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