Maison Margiela's Couture Spring 2024 collection marked a triumphant return to form for John Galliano, who had, for decades, elevated fashion into a captivating show. Following an eerily hypnotizing short film, Leon Dame skillfully blurred the boundaries between fantasy and reality, gracefully donning a white corset and trousers with pronounced hips.

Nude corsets sculpted sinuous figures, revealing themselves beneath thinly veiled black tulle dresses—a delightfully useless cover, especially under the luminous glow of Pont Alexandre III, where the catwalk started. Similar dresses featured silver sequins and black feather-like trimmings.

The emphasis on silhouette was omnipresent, showcasing unbelievable shapes. Exquisitely tailored suits contorted into hourglass forms, while various iterations of skirt suits boasted billowing sleeves and impeccably rounded hips. Initially presented in flower-like lace and later in white, layered with black ripped sheer fabric — reaffirming the influence of the Maison that the designer now leads.

Despite unmistakably embodying Galliano's signature style, the collection exuded an undeniable Margiela essence. Seams were accentuated rather than concealed. Hems were intentionally left raw. White stockings were placed over high-heeled orange shoes (tabis, obviously).

A standout piece from the collection was the pleated beige coat, its texture reminiscent of cardboard. As the model extended her arms, the impeccably cut kimono sleeves replicated the appearance of a pannier.

The dark Victorian fantasy persisted. Amidst a predominantly neutral palette, painted bodysuits beneath embroidered sheer gowns floated ghostly on the catwalk. In blurred shades of blue and pink, the models resembled distorted versions of Monet's sunrises.

Beyond the garments, Galliano's shows are a spectacle in themselves. Exquisite women paraded as enigmatic figures concealed behind voluminous coats. Models assumed doll-like personas, their faces porcelain-glazed, moving down the runway as if orchestrated puppets in Galliano's theatrical production. We’re just happy to be back in the audience.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

MAISON MARGIELA HAUTE COUTURE SS24

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