Oh, what a joy it is to see a designer truly thrive. After two seasons at the helm of Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza is hitting his stride. Not that his past two collections were unsatisfactory—far from it—but Spring/Summer 2025 feels like the work of a designer fully at ease with his creative vision.

The collection is a triumph from multiple angles. First, Appiolaza speaks to the Moschino client with remarkable skill. Despite a significant aesthetic shift from the brand’s previous direction, there’s a clear continuity.

A colourful, word-covered print evokes memories of his predecessor’s time at the company. However, where Jeremy Scott’s playfulness often leaned toward camp, Appiolaza opts for subtlety.

At first glance, the opening looks seem like a lighthearted nod to domestic bliss, reminiscent of children draping sheets over themselves in imaginative ways. But, of course, that’s just child’s play. This simplicity is only the first layer of interpretation—Appiolaza’s true talent lies in the underlying complexity woven throughout all 46 offerings.

The initial white pieces were inspired by photos of Franco Moschino, the brand’s founder, twisting white fabric around a mannequin. Meanwhile, the vibrant prints were crafted by the legendary Terry Jones, co-founder of i-D magazine—what a timely collaboration, as the publication has just relaunched.

Appealing to a wide audience is no easy feat, but Appiolaza pulls it off. Fashion enthusiasts will appreciate the niche references, while the clientele is invigorated by a fresh take on a winning formula. Even the most casual observers will find entertainment in the designer’s “camp light” approach.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

MOSCHINO SS25

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