"Bad tattoos on leather-tanned skin. Jesus Christ on a plastic sign." Charli XCX’s Everything is Romantic plays as the GCDS show begins. Of course, this isn’t the Spotify version—what we hear is a custom remix made by Charli herself. The song didn’t need much introduction, not after flooding our timeline with end-of-summer posts, but it set the tone perfectly. As the first looks appeared, the collection’s context became clear: Brat-branded green saturated everything from furry bags to monochromatic catsuits.

Unsurprisingly, Charli served as a muse for the collection—or rather, her attitude did. Giuliano Calza cited both the pop star and Bianca Censori as muses, with the latter referenced in semi-transparent bodysuits that mimicked tights.

These bodysuits, along with V-shaped elastic tops, carried a similar energy, infused with a distinct DIY aesthetic—a nod Calza made no effort to hide. Inspired by the mainstream rise of niche subcultures, the designer sought to evoke a sense of bedroom-confined community.

GCDS’ signature playful sexiness was fully on display in cheeky nipple covers, naturally shaped like Sanrio’s beloved characters. While we hoped to see Cinnamoroll, we’ll happily settle for a Badtz-Maru mesh top that barely concealed the model’s chest.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

GCDS SS25

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