“Yes.” “Yes.” “Yes.” “Hell yes.” The person next to me when witnessing the latest Saint Laurent show punctuated it perfectly. As each look came out, another euphoric wail rang in my ears. It’s hard to blame them. Saint Laurent’s latest show was nothing short of masterful.

At first glance, Antony Vaccarello’s latest show appeared to be an extension of the house’s previous menswear presentation, where technically masterful suiting played a central role. But that impression fades upon closer inspection. In reality, the two collections share little in common. The male counterpart of the Saint Laurent suit was achieved through flou—an ancient technique that prioritizes fluidity above all. The tailoring in this new collection, however, was the exact opposite. The suits that graced the runway were anything but fluid; they were commanding.

Strong shoulders gave the suits an imposing presence, broadening the models’ frames as a power play. As Vaccarello noted backstage, this was not about sex appeal—a trope female suiting often falls into—but about authority. The completeness of each look emphasised this point. There wasn’t a bare chest in sight. Every suit was finished with crisp shirts, wide ties, and (not or) opulent accessories. From the top of their glasses to their golden, pointed toes, the Saint Laurent woman exudes power.

The brand has long been synonymous with female tailoring—Le Smoking is forever etched into fashion history. But something felt different here. These suits weren’t merely lazy nods to the past. The collection’s starting point was the creator himself: based on an interview where Yves Saint Laurent declared himself as the YSL woman, Vaccarello sculpted models in that very image. Heavy-set glasses complemented the suits, many partially covered by equally powerful outerwear. It’s rare for a creator—rather than their creations—to serve as the source of inspiration, but such is the boldness of the house.

In contrast to the precise tailoring, Vaccarello also played with a bohemian allure. Floor-length skirts were first highlighted with bobble necklaces and then muted with oversized leather jackets. Deeply hued tunics over fluid trousers continued the dialogue, one that directly referenced the maison’s history.

Then, after a particularly dark sequence of suits, the commanding tailoring came to a sudden halt—replaced by an opulent explosion of colour. Brocade ensembles maintained similar silhouettes but ventured into diverging hues. Broad-shouldered jackets, lace blouses, and layered skirts blended rich purples, vibrant teals, and seductive reds—creating a striking mix that was both dissonant and harmonious. The Saint Laurent woman contains multitudes.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

SAINT LAURENT SS25

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