The appointment of Chemena Kamali as the creative director of the Parisian Maison Chloé was announced exactly one year ago, signalling a return to the timeless vision pioneered by Gaby Aghion and later shaped by Karl Lagerfeld, evoking the brand’s storied legacy.

Kamali had started at Chloé under Phoebe Philo, and the expectations were high. After a successful first show and the official return of hippie chic, the industry counted on her to prove that it was not just beginner's luck.

For her second collection as the creative head of the brand, Kamali presented a bohemian show at the Tennis Club de Paris in a naturistic and minimalistic setting adorned with plants, where savoir-faire and romanticism merged. Reminiscing about the youth culture of the ‘70s, this collection showcases Chloé’s roots and strengths.

Feminine at its core and with flawless constructions, the pieces were distinguished by their volume, soft movement and ethereal forms. Transparencies and loose fabrics created a light vibe throughout the show, while ruffles, bolero-inspired pieces, and babydoll silhouettes resulted in looks displaying a playful innocence.

Lace was the common thread of the looks, present throughout the collection in tops, dresses, ankle-tied corsair pants and delicate lingerie, which created a charming aesthetic. Pastels maintained the cohesion of the collection; however, floral prints in strong colours and large motifs adorned voluminous dresses, creating an unexpected twist to the austere palette. Perfectly tailored high-waisted pants with bell bottoms, along with jackets and long coats, showcased a wardrobe for the city woman, while keeping it fresh.

The collection reinterpreted the house’s codes in a modern way, creating an effortless wardrobe and portraying the feeling of a summer pause. The show denoted Kamali’s knowledge of the Maison and her mastery of meticulously crafted pieces.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

CHLOÉ SS25

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