We’re so back, baby! After a two-year hiatus from the runway, Alessandro Michele makes his triumphant return. We got a glimpse of what his first collection might offer with the 171 looks released for Resort 2025, but this season felt like a joyous homecoming. In an era where "recession core" — drabby, restrained fashion reflective of financial caution — seems to dominate, it was exhilarating to witness the return of fashion's maximalist maestro. And maximalism is exactly what he delivered.

The collection drew heavily from Mr. Garavani’s time at the brand, with references dating back to the 1960s. Not that Michele needed to explicitly say it in the press room after as he did — the angular lapels on structured blazers and tiered chiffon dresses left little room for doubt. Grounded in the era's sensibilities, Michele crafted a collection that was unmistakably his own.

Yet, for those worried Michele would merely replicate his previous work, this collection felt refreshingly distinct. Yes, we saw the signature polka-dotted ruffle dresses and Margot Tenenbaum-esque fur coats, but something at its core was noticeably different. The camp extravagance of his Gucci era was tempered by a refined elegance. Gone were the loud colours and graphic prints. While there were obvious departures from his predecessor—colour-blocking gave way to pattern clashes, and heavy sequins were replaced by delicate embroidery—the collection still resonated as pure Valentino.

One dress paired a sheer top with rococo oversized buttons and a stiff skirt trimmed in fur. Another featured a satin black tunic with shimmering red embroidery at the chest, topped off by a large hat adorned with an even larger feather. The collection was a clear character study for the new Valentino woman. And with his debut couture collection slated for early next year, to say we’re excited for Michelle’s next steps at Valentino would be an understatement.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

VALENTINO SS25

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