Balenciaga serves up a visual feast this season in an evolving "get-ready-with-me" fashion, offering them to the audience on a silver platter.

The show opens with underwear boldly displayed over trompe l'oeil, skin-coloured turtlenecks and pantyhose, paired with matching lingerie sets and garters tucked into pointed pumps. As the looks progress, layers are added: a V-neck sweater, a bomber jacket, and an oversized fur coat bring a sense of coverage and ease. Modesty gradually emerges with vintage-inspired silk dresses, though these aren't your typical mid-length gowns. They are slashed open, their backs exposed and bound together with oversized ribbons, paying homage to corsetry. The ribbon details spill over into denim ensembles, easing the transition into the 2005-infused section of the collection. Super-low-rise jeans and trousers reveal the midriff as a deliberate statement, an additional layer of styling. Collared polos, in striped patterns and classic black and red, evoke nostalgia for the days of endlessly watching Laguna Beach. Gvasalia elevates the collar into a standout element, with Medici-inspired stand collars constructed from rigid denim, reminiscent of playing dress-up on Stardoll, where we'd drag and drop fashion pieces onto our virtual mannequins. True to form, Balenciaga’s styling delivers a pointed message, this time in chaotic, layered "airport looks" or outfits that resemble a hasty exit from a situationship.

In terms of accessories, the phone replaces the handbag, hanging from a lanyard with "Balenciaga" displayed on its black mirrored screen. Belt buckles are exaggerated and back in full force, alongside black caps and 360 visors that obscure the models' identities. The signature Balenciaga trainer makes its appearance again, this time less colossal but still commanding, now in a reflective high-top version with zippers.

References to Balenciaga’s archives are woven throughout the collection, particularly with the cropped spherical balloon jacket, reimagined in various forms—bombers, motorcycle jackets, trenches, and more. Coats are the multi-functional heroes of the runway, twisted, knotted, and transformed into dresses, emphasising the timeless versatility of good outerwear. A standout is the leather trench where the hem becomes a hood, a technique echoed in puffer and beige trench iterations. The final three looks feature the iconic Balenciaga exaggerated shoulders, with a sparkling houndstooth ensemble that steals the spotlight.

Words by Gabrielle Valda Colas

BALENCIAGA SS25

TBT_BTB_ARchive

// LATEST //