// RAW ARTISTRY AT S.R. Studio. LA. CA. //

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One of the key highlights of this anniversary edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, Sterling Ruby’s debut show had the right mix of refinement, primitivism and boldness, with striking use of patchwork, bleaching and printing. Turns out the American artist has been fascinated with clothing since his teenage years and the level of craftsmanship and attention to detail was impressive.

In the 1990s, there were several moments of rapprochement between fashion and art, most famously with Helmut Lang ending on the cover of Artforum in October 1995. Ruby’s show felt like a seminal moment, too, giving his presentation the edge of a performance. There was a nomadic and savage feeling in his silhouette, from prairie-inspired frocks to asymmetrical ponchos, worn with matching loose pants. A fully bleached pink denim ensemble, composed of a shirt and matching jeans, looked sharp and relevant, while woven knits and faux-fur trimmed separates had a naive and innocent charm. 

Rich in textures, colors and contrasting volumes, the collection had real energy, which the audience felt straight away. The American artist will not go for the seasonal format, but it seems that he will return with a second collection at a later stage. He partnered with  SSENSE exclusively and the less intricate pieces are now available online. Ruby also managed to feature strong messages on his clothes, which gave us food for thought. A long, elegant black dress, printed with two burning candles, seemed like a beacon of hope for humanity’s future. This was an accomplished proposal and the clothes were instantly desirable. 

/ Words by Philippe Pourhashemi /

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srstudio.com

// YOUTHFUL OPTIMISM AT MSGM //

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Celebrating his brand’s 10 th anniversary within the Pitti Uomo schedule, Massimo Giorgetti was in a cheerful and energetic mood, balancing trendy tailoring and fuss-free sportswear with graphic prints and vibrant colors. Not willing to indulge into any kind of retrospective -Giorgetti would rather look forward than dwell on the past- the Rimini- born designer charmed his audience with an upbeat collection that took water as its main inspiration, evoking gorgeous summers outdoors and lazy holidays by the seaside.

Giorgetti surfed on the current wave of early 1990s inspired tailoring, which was a prominent story during the menswear shows seen in Florence. If the collection’s jackets and pants were completely on trend, a MSGM line-up wouldn’t be complete without clashing prints, joyful shades and unexpected combinations. An exclusive bandana motif looked great and refined -wickedly mixed with animal print- and tie-dye effects were strong and alluring. Giorgetti kept the silhouette relaxed and easy, with boxy shirts and roomy shorts.

One of the best things about the brand is that it offers relevant fashion at an accessible price point, and MSGM showcased its new underwear line in the finale, which also a 1990s flavor. There are plenty of MSGM men out there who love individuality and clothes that emphasize self- expression. Now, they will be able to sport the brand inside and out.

/ Words by Philippe Pourhashemi /

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www.msgm.it

// Y/PROJECT ROCKS PITTI UOMO //

Y/PROJECT FALL WINTER 19/20 AT PITTI UOMO 95

AN EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH GLENN MARTENS

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Being asked to be the Guest Designer at Pitti Uomo in Florence is definitely a badge of honor for a designer, as well as a strong sign of recognition. Glenn Martens, who is only in his mid-30s, showed a powerful and directional collection within the historical walls of the  Chiostro Grande del Complesso di Santa Maria Novella. We caught up with the talented Belgian to discuss his love of tradition, his ongoing vision for Y/Project and what he thinks ‘streetwear’ actually means.

 Philippe Pourhashemi: How was the idea of presenting in Florence appealing to you?

Glenn Martens:  I came here for the first time when I finished high school, just before my first year at university. For me, Florence remains a major cultural center in Europe, which flourished during the Renaissance. I also wanted a democratic feel for the show and picked this venue because it’s a Florentine landmark while being open to visitors. Pitti Uomo is a fair welcoming thousands of people each season and it seemed logical for me to keep that sense of openness.

PP: How did you translate this vibe within the collection?

 GM: I think Y/Project speaks to very different clients and this eclecticism is reflected in the new collection. I wanted the clothes to feel opulent, but playful at the same time. There’s a whole theme in the show, which I named “Pop-Up”, where garments are doubled-up and seem to fall over the body. I also printed certain fabrics on tulle, which I layered over the originals, creating optical effects. I always like to give our clients several options to style the garments they choose, which means many pieces are pretty transformable.

PP: And you’ve expanded your line of footwear, as well as the bags. The thigh-high boots are really amazing.

 GM: Yes, it’s great to have a full collection and our first one for men. The last thing I wanted to show was sneakers, so we started from this idea of a formal shoe and changing the shape, from two-tone boots and square fronts with heels to strappy sandals and sleek patent leather boots for women.

PP: There are always so many ideas in your shows, but you’ve also perfected some of the styles introduced last season.

 GM: I get easily bored, but it was rewarding to be able to develop certain ideas in more depth. I showed more womenswear looks as well, which was exciting for me.

PP: Streetwear’ is as overused in fashion as the ‘luxury’ word. How do you define it?

 GM: For me streetwear is a tracksuit with a print. We offer that within our collections, but now our clients also buy the tailoring and more intricate pieces. It’s important for me that they represent the brand well.

PP: What was it like working with the Pitti Uomo team?

 GM: I have to say they were quite wonderful people, warm, dedicated and professional. I’m super pleased with how it’s turned out.

PP: How did you manage to get it all ready on time?

 GM: Well, it was a bit of a stretch and we had to work extra hard, but somehow we managed to launch everything before the Christmas holidays.

PP: You’re not scared of the pressure, are you?

 GM: Not at all. I even enjoy it.

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/ Interview by Philippe Pourhashemi /

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www.pittimmagine.com

www.yproject.fr