In his Fall/Winter 2024 offering for Acne Studios, Jonny Johansson used leather and denim – two staples in the brand’s vocabulary – to build a collection of incredibly sculptural and seductive clothes. Before the show had even begun, the artwork placed in the centre of the venue – two large-scale sculptures of armchairs made out of recycled tyres by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo – was an evocative sign of what was to come. The rigidness and industrial nature of the piece made its way to the showcased garments. Inspired by saddlery, the moulded leather dresses in black and chocolate brown were cut to perfection and highlighted the female body. The denim sets were dipped in oily sheen and featured stiff collars partially covering the face. Johansson’s two favourite textiles were accompanied by faux fur accents, used to create exaggerated coats and dramatic snoods. The designer has even managed to make knitwear look technical, presenting short and floor-length dresses that wouldn’t look out of place on the set of Dune. The futuristic silhouettes were paired with equally elevated accessories – from oversized bowling bags to knee-socks-and-strappy-sandals hybrid boots.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
