Inside a seemingly abandoned building, a crowd gathers at 1:30 PM. As wine glasses are brought out, those who have had their lunch sustain, but the same can’t be said for those who waited until after it to eat. Suddenly and without prior warning, people sit down. The room knows when to quiet down.
Slow and steady, models start appearing on the runway. But this procession is devoid of spirituality; it’s almost mechanical. The first thing you notice about the collection is the styling; some pieces are beyond recognition. Hoodies were used either as a singular sleeve or a beautiful dress, undermining their inherent casual nature. Similarly, other everyday (we don’t dare say relatable) fabrics, like denim or heavy knits, were reworked under Dries Van Noten’s guise.
His Fall/Winter 2024 collection is a meeting of worlds — the mundane and the extraordinary. Named “The Woman Who Dares to Cut Her Own Fringe,” it explores contrasts. Neutral trousers and oversized knits are paired with protruding and glittery jackets. Sheerness is played with safely. Practical wool coats are puffed at the sleeves, implying a vaguely romantic feel.
After 66 looks, we have changed our minds. Van Noten isn’t colliding worlds; he’s showing us they’re at different extremes of the same spectrum.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
