It’s not common for the fashion industry to be optimistic. So when it was announced that Chemena Kamali was to replace Gabriella Hearst as the creative head of Chloé, it was amusing to see a positive reaction from a crowd that simultaneously craves and loathes change. Her track record explains the response. The designer started her career at Chloé over 20 years ago under Phoebe Philo’s leadership. Since then, she’s moved around the fashion elite — Saint Laurent being the latest entry in her résumé, well, second to last now. The excitement continued when the new creative director tweaked the brand’s logo, bringing it closer to the original.
Kamali’s interest in reinstating Chloé to its former self wasn’t limited to its letters; it was obvious as soon as its Fall/Winter 2024 show began. Inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s time at the Maison, the designer’s debut was an ode to everything we loved about Chloé. It wasn’t intellectual or overcomplicated. Kamali gave us exactly what we wanted to see — the renaissance of boho chic. Heavy on the boho, the collection was a masterclass in frilly femininity with a '70s undertone.
Billowing maxi dresses were filled to the brim with lacy layers. Plaid coats almost touched the ground. Structured leather jackets were made flowy with bouncing fringe. Kamali’s bohemian charm is not just endearing; it’s infatuating. A student of Lagerfeld through and through, Kamali rescued the iconic designer’s styling from 1977, tucking flowy dresses in delicious over-the-knee boots.
There was something refreshing about exaggerated chunky gold belts that spelled out the brand’s name. The new Chloé doesn’t take herself seriously. It’s safe to say Kamali’s debut was triumphant. It’s so refreshing when a designer not only understands what their audience wants but gives it to us.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
