If there's one thing Jonathan Anderson will do, it's to get inspired by an artist for a collection. For Loewe Fall/Winter 2024, the Irish designer looked into the work of Albert York, an American artist known for his landscapes and still life. York’s art wasn’t merely Anderson’s muse; it was part of the physical framing of the collection — the tent the show took place in had 18 paintings by the artist on its walls. References to it came in the shape of floral matching sets and oddly draped dresses. The latter is one of Anderson’s staples. This season’s peculiar roster was made up of uniquely belted sleeveless maxi dresses and geometrically challenging bow-shaped minis.
The designer’s omnipresent surrealist kink was on full display in (very) high-waisted trousers with dramatic metal bubbles and billowy cargo pants that distorted their wearer’s legs. The exploration of high-class aesthetics was interesting. Displacing a tailcoat’s tails off to the side, the designer reinterpreted a classic in a curious yet palatable way. Clunky metal lapels on structured wool coats were a definite standout. Coming in both organic and angular iterations, the metallic collars grabbed your attention as the models walked, stiffly opposing the moving fabric. It’s fruitless to worry about Jonathan Anderson; he’s long proven mastery over his craft.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
