Etro's Fall/Winter 2024 collection is opulent and representative of the style of the Italian brand to a quintessential level. The show is opened in decadence as the first few looks feature the house’s iconic paisley pattern gold-leafed onto felt coats and skirts. If Etro’s creative director, Marco De Vincenzo, dives into the usual grandeur of the brand imagery, he visited this time a darker side to it. Indeed, the loud baroque prints and the vibrant colours – a signature of the brand – are seen throughout the collection but in more muted shades. The colour black is usually rare at Etro; this time, it is at the centre of everything. The collection is equally dark and baroque, far from the bohemian chic we have been used to, yet the spirit remains.
De Vincenzo pays homage to Greek tragedies and takes us on a Homeric journey. Giant Grecian theatre masks are used as the centrepiece of the catwalk, plunged in tamed lighting, enhancing the sombre atmosphere around the collection. The same masks can be seen on the jewellery pieces.
Each garment features lavish embellishments - this comeback of maximalism on the runways is refreshing after years of beige monochromatic silhouettes. Etro’s maximalism is partly transmitted through textures, which play a crucial role in the brand’s aesthetic. The luxurious silks, velvets and cashmere not only add to the sumptuosity of the show but also call for a sensory experience – that’s about as Italian as it gets.
Words by Marien Brandon
