In today’s fashion landscape, staying at the helm of a major fashion brand as a creative director for over a decade is truly a unique experience. Last night, Nicolas Ghesquière celebrated his 10-year anniversary at Louis Vuitton with a collection more than fit for this monumental occasion.
Staged in the larger-than-life venue at the house’s go-to Parisian location, the Louvre, the designer’s Fall/Winter 2024 offering was spectacular in its ingenuity. The show opened with a line-up centred around incredibly desirable technical windbreakers constructed in silk. This start was a great sign of what’s to come. The collection showcased some of the best outerwear of the season – from shiny embellished bombers to roomy shearling coats and tailored wool jackets with long side panels.
Throughout the show, Ghesquière also presented looks whose simplicity let his immaculate construction skills shine. Grey wool jackets were a modern take on power suiting from the designer’s favourite decade – the 1980s – while short dresses in the same fabric showcased his unmatched draping techniques. These more toned-down silhouettes were brilliantly juxtaposed with garments focused around his love for rich textures, with opulently embellished blazers and final dresses being highlights of this category.
Over the past 10 years, the designer excelled at creating immediately-recognizable accessories which have become staples in Louis Vuitton’s vocabulary. His iconic creations, such as the Petite Malle bag he premiered in his very first collection, were presented in the latest show in unique colourways alongside new handbag propositions. An accessory that seems to be Ghesquière’s very welcome obsession this season are fur mittens – used as a finishing touch in half of the looks on the runway.
In the collection, the designer was not afraid to reference moments from throughout his tenure, showing their timeless appeal – from floor-length gowns with long sleeves and strong shoulders to Louis XVI-inspired coats, and dresses with signature asymmetric hems. In the show notes, Ghesquière said, “Ten years later, this evening is a new dawn.” And with those words, we can’t wait to see what else he has in store for us in years to come.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
