There is something so remarkable about Anthony Vaccarello’s “surprise” menswear show. The refusal to conform to the men’s schedule and, instead, closing the fashion month feels right. Nothing describes the Saint Laurent man better — it’s about nerve. After all, that’s what it takes to wear a voluminous black leather coat, one of the standout pieces of the Fall/Winter 2024 collection.
An array of shiny coats paraded slickly down the runway. From structured peacoats to boxy jackets, most were accompanied by caps of the same fabric — a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s accessories from the 1960s. Vaccarello’s references to the founder of the Maison are omnipresent; however, this season, he took it a step further: a literal doppelganger opened the collection with Mr. Saint Laurent’s iconic glasses and suit, the first of many that elegantly swayed on the runway. There was something special about the way suits moved, both rigid in the shoulders and fluid on the body. To achieve this peculiar effect, Vaccarello based all the tailoring on flou, a term that describes the search for the ultimate fluidity, opposing itself to the solid construction tailoring presumes.
Confessing himself inspired by the movie American Psycho, there was something methodical about the collection. Elegance doesn’t just happen; it requires meticulous planning. Besides Christian Bale and Mr. Saint Laurent, there were slight nods to the womenswear show staged just a week prior. The powdery neutral palette was similar, even if not through sheer fabrics (except in the case of one lone see-through shirt). Suits in greyish shades of khaki, cream, and brown contrasted with matching shirts and ties. Ending a hectic fashion month, Vaccarello reassured us that in fashion, intelligently made clothing will beat out any stunt.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
