One thing was abundantly clear for Chanel’s Spring Summer 2024 collection: Virginie Viard is reinstating Coco Chanel’s legacy. The legendary designer is single-handedly responsible for the French girl chic aesthetic. Viard is updating her lexicon.

Unlike her predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, who had a knack for spectacles, Viard focuses on the clothes themselves. For her latest collection, the French designer references the Maison's history, taking inspiration from 1930s beachwear.

The show opened with tweed jumpsuits and maxi dresses with plunging necklines, giving the fabric an expected sensuality. As the collection progressed, swimsuits appeared that, though appearing simple at first, were cleverly quilted to resemble the iconic Chanel bags.

References to the brand’s DNA were frequent but not necessarily obvious. A pink-striped lightweight maxi dress was a clear reference to Coco Chanel’s own creations. Asymmetrical terrycloth sets stood out, proving the designer is willing to expand Chanel’s narrative.

Towards the end of the collection, transparency and florals reigned, providing the collection with a delicately feminine close. Viard is not reinventing the wheel but she’s doing something equally as impressive, she’s keeping it spinning.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CHANEL SS24

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