During a week marked by relentless rain, even the sun seemed to celebrate Chanel’s return to the Grand Palais. After a four-year hiatus, during which the maison funded the venue’s restoration to ensure future shows, Chanel made its grand homecoming. And for many of us, it truly felt like coming home. A sense of ease washed over the guests as the uncharacteristically bright sunlight streamed through the glass ceiling. In these unpredictable times, as we all patiently await the announcement of the next creative director, Chanel’s design team delivered a collection that reaffirmed the house’s legacy is more than capable of sustaining its creative spirit.
Karl Lagerfeld’s presence lingered in the air—perhaps due to the iconic setting, though more likely because of the giant birdcage at the centre of the runway. The theatricality, unique to the Grand Palais, was palpable. The collection opened with voluminous collars on classic and not-so-classic tweed looks, as a variation of sets introduced shorts as a complement to elegant jackets. Chanel’s design team drew inspiration from the Art Deco steel architecture to pay homage to its beloved venue, incorporating these classic motifs into hand-knit details on contrasting tweed collars and traditional suits. One particular standout subtly reimagined the winning formula—a patterned shift dress blended seamlessly with a similarly patterned blouse, both, of course, in tweed.
But it wasn’t just the subtle references hidden within the sweet tweed ensembles that honoured Chanel’s legacy. The birdcage towering over the runway was a direct nod to the iconic 1991 advertisement featuring Vanessa Paradis, directed by Jean-Paul Goude. Like Paradis before her, a new Chanel muse, Riley Keough, sang while swinging gracefully from side to side, her dress beautifully trailing behind her as she soared through the air.
Despite the unconventional movement—after all, there aren’t many who casually swing from a massive birdcage—it was mesmerising to watch the gown flow so effortlessly. Similar dark, flowing pieces appeared on the runway as the show neared its conclusion, just before the final looks, which, perhaps nodding to the usual occupants of cages when models aren't around, were adorned with light feathers.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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