For his first Haute Couture show at Dior, Jonathan Anderson explored the deep historical, technical, and artistic nature of haute couture, a French tradition that transforms as society and technology evolve. This very same idea of transformation and heritage is the core of the Spring/Summer 2026 collection.
The show flawlessly portrayed the feminine essence of Dior, which has defined the brand's identity since its founding, as expressed through the innocence and delicacy of flowers by Anderson. Present throughout the vision in myriad ways, florals were interpreted in diverse poetic languages. They appeared as details on dresses and bags, as subtle prints and appliqués, and as staple pieces in their own right, from the venue’s ceiling decoration to 3D accessories, XXL earrings, or adornments on heels and bags.
Anderson’s distinctive approach to design was seen in the proportions and volumes. Balloon-shaped skirts, dresses and tops gave the collection a whimsical allure, while ruffles and draping in lightweight materials followed the models' natural movement as they walked down the runway.
The palette, dominated by soft hues and romantic pastels such as powder blue, pale yellow, and blush pink, gave an ethereal feeling, enhanced by feather-like appliqués that contributed to the sense of whimsy. Asymmetric constructions were paired with prints that granted the garments a sense of movement and a trompe-l’œil visual effect, while other pieces were an ode to timeless and refined construction.
Each garment delicately hugs the body, not in a restrictive way, but enveloping it in a subtle, natural manner. Organza, chiffon, and tulle create a lush yet delicate finish, while other silhouettes lean toward more constructed shapes, such as the iconic Bar Jacket. Anderson brought together the visions that have shaped the brand until now, from Raf Simons’ romanticism and John Galliano’s theatricality to the femininity of Monsieur Dior himself, immaculately embodying the dreamy nature of Haute Couture.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
