There’s nothing quite like a Dries Van Noten boy. The attitude he projects, eclectic but intellectual, is unmistakable. It’s no surprise, really. Van Noten’s very first runway was a menswear show. He’s always taken the category seriously, always a top contender come January and June. Now, his chosen successor, Julian Klausner, is picking up the mantle. In his debut menswear show, he delivered what we’re preemptively, but emphatically, calling one of the best collections of the season.
As soon as the first look stepped out, a popped-collar trench coat styled with red socks and matching shoes, the barren venue was transformed. Lou Reed’s voice reverberating between the concrete pillars accompanied a journey into Klausner’s vision for the brand. Like the womenswear shown the season prior, the new creative director’s strength lies in both preserving and advancing the legacy Van Noten defined over more than three decades. The beginning of the show quickly dived into athleisure with the airs of an off-duty ballet dancer: colourful biker shorts combined with tailored sleeveless tops and printed cropped trench coats.
Naturally, patterns punctuated the collection, as they always do. Brightly hued stripes gave way to wallpaper-like florals. These bloomed on everything from carefully sequined vests to sarongs that at times complemented pants, and at others, completely replaced them. There’s a joyful, sexy playfulness in Klausner’s design language. Structured yet light blazers were capped off with the aforementioned sarongs, as if haphazardly tied around the waist. At other times, the same formal jackets were tucked into grey sweatpants. Micro shorts (a Spring/Summer 2026 staple) appeared in idiosyncratic patterns. Accessories were plentiful and outstanding: piped suede oversized bags, bright pink satin sneakers, seashell necklaces.
In what’s only Klausner’s second season, the future doesn’t just seem bright. It feels right. And if this collection is any indication, he’s not just continuing Van Noten’s legacy; he’s confidently expanding it. There’s a new kind of Dries boy on the runway. He’s not just smart or cultured – he’s hot.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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